Feliz Navidad!

Well, I have to say, our second Sicilian Christmas was very special!

Y'see one of our sons is here with us, along with our lovely daughter-in-law. Anton and Alina both live in New York, and decided this year was the one they'd visit us.

Alina, Anton ... and me!

It's been a real privilege because this is the first time Alina's been away from her family over the festive period. She's Mexican (hence the Spanish greeting!) so, just like any Sicilian, family plays such a huge part in her Christmas celebrations.
As said, a real treat for me and Alice!
F'sure it's been a somewhat traumatic journey for them. Not so much the distance, or even the logistics involved, but thanks to the rise (and rise) of the Omicron variant, of course!
Unfortunately for us, they spent several days in Rome before journeying here. I say 'unfortunately' because, obviously, they've found Modica to be ... somewhat ... bucolic, quaint and under-whelming in comparison.
That's only natural, and was entirely expected by all of us, but the pair of them have been very forgiving and understanding.
You have to remember that this particular part of the world is essentially our 'retirement home'. Chosen not for its size, exciting nightlife, or large foreign population, but (mostly) because it's the very opposite of all those things!
Like any family here in Sicily at the minute, our own festivities have had to be muted, thanks again to ongoing concerns over Omicron.
But, nevertheless, it’s been awesome as!

‘Expat’

A term that’s bandied about a great deal within the foreign community here in Italy.
Wikipedia defines an expatriate as: “A person residing in a country other than their native country ... the term ‘expatriate’ is also used for retirees and others who have chosen to live outside their native country.”

"Expats Living in Sicily" FaceBook page

In my humble opinion, we should more correctly be labelled as ‘immigrants’.
Why? Because that definition better fits our small community here, doesn’t it?
Am I not a person: “...who comes to live permanently in a foreign country” (Oxford), or one: “...who comes to a country to take up permanent residence” (Webster’s)?
The term ‘expat’ can be (often is) seen as implying wealth and privilege, ‘different’ motives for moving, and nationality. Some going as far as to believe the word has racist connotations.
Now originally the word ‘expatriate’ referred to exiles. But that meaning has now been lost. Unless, of course, you consider some of us at least to be in self-exile from the UK post Brexit!
What makes a person like me an ‘expat’, while another is labelled a ‘foreign’ or ‘migrant’ worker? It’s because the former is used to describe educated, seen-to-be-rich people working and/or living abroad, while those way less privileged (e.g. farm workers in Modica) are labelled as the latter. With all the stigma that brings.
A classification that really matters, because such language has been used as a political tool (e.g. by Trump and Johnson).
So, I’m an ‘immigrant’ and a proud one!

Differences

Let’s talk differences here.
Not in migration status, but in areas. Modica is unusual in that this small rural city, only boasting around 54,000 residents, is effectively split into three areas.

View from Bassa up to Alta

And that’s three very distinctly different areas! These are: “Modica Alta”, “Modica Bassa”, and “Modica Sorda”.
These names are local ones, and don’t appear on any official map. Regardless, there are great differences between the three.
Alta is the oldest, and sprawls high (hence its name) on the rocky ridge north of the now-city centre. It was the first settled (around 3,000 years ago!) because the valley below was once home to two torrential rivers, which flooded regularly.
Later, many citizens chose to ignore that threat, and moved to the more convenient lower slopes. This became Modica Bassa (“Modica Low”). But the threat remained and, following a disastrous flood in 1902, the rivers were paved over.
The third, biggest, and way less attractive area it has to be said, is Modica Sorda. A very recent addition, sprawling southeast of the city centre, it was founded as recently as the 20th century. And, consequently, is full of apartment blocks and similar soulless buildings.
What differentiates these three, more than mere geography, are the services on offer.
Services, such as public transport and modern infrastructure, that are missing in Alta; available but more ‘touristy’ in Bassa; and modern and fully available, but soulless as mentioned, in Sorda.
Given the above, we had to choose to live in Bassa, of course!

More Soon... 

Carry On

Let's talk ... couriers!

Those of you following my blog will know we've been semi-constantly assembling furniture for months now. Something you can't do without unassembled furniture pieces arriving at your doorstep.
And that's the rub right there: It both has to arrive and at your doorstep. Not 100 metres away, big and awkward, and weighing 100 kilograms!
But I'm getting ahead of myself.

A courier with a trolley? Who knew?

Much of what we've ordered came from a company called 'Songmics'. Strange name, but great products, with no-fuss, excellent (and free) delivery. Consequently, our entrance, kitchen, dining room, and lounge are full of their 'Industrial Style' pieces.
We love 'em!
When you order, within a day or two they'll send you the delivery details, down to the actual day and an estimated time. The products are Chinese (of course) but, joke all you like, the company here in Europe is based in Germany, and they’re f’sure efficient.

However, you can't order everything from one company.
So we looked elsewhere for our kitchen pantry, terrace furniture, bedroom suite, etc. And that’s when the 'fun' started.
Some of the delivery companies involved were okay. Most weren’t. Estimated delivery dates? Fine. Everything else? Not so good.
And the excuses: "But signora, my truck's too big...", "But signora, I’m here. Why aren't you home?", and "But signora, I don't have a trolley..."
That last one really got us! We heard it any number of times. A courier without a trolley? Please!
But we’re about done now … thankfully!

Next Up

Next up is installing double glazing, and a new kitchen.
I was initially sceptical about the windows. F'sure they’re wooden, single-paned, and came with gaps due to age?

Getting on a bit now...

But this is Sicily after all: Our island-in-the-sun, whose weather bears no resemblance at all to that we’ve experienced previously. So surely, we could get away with a cheaper update, rather than a full do-over?
My fault entirely, I'm afraid! Too busy concentrating on getting our forever home furnished to give it much thought. In my defence, last Summer was a scorcher, so there seemed no rush.
Well, there is now!
The weather recently has been very reminiscent of London’s, albeit somewhat milder. With constant rain, lots o' hail, and cold-and-dark overcast days.
Luckily, I finally listened to Alice’s demands that we get it organised and, after getting three quotes, chose a local company to install them.
That was in late August but, this being Sicily, it looks like we may finally get them installed in December.
The kitchen was less problematic.
And, while there was no argument about getting a new and bespoke one, again we left it a little late. We ordered it in October, and may see it in by Christmas. We hope!
Our home came with a rudimentary (Ikea) kitchen so, in our defence, there was no real rush. There are only two of us after all. Although it’ll be great to have a new one, I have to say!
‘Cause I do love to cook.

Utilities

You won’t get far without water and electricity.
Not only do these utilities make life bearable, they’re essential, of course!

We had a wee struggle with the first one when we moved into our new home. We could get our heads around the fact water was only supplied for 3-4 hours a day, so you needed to store it.
And, as we have three 300 litre water tanks, we found ourselves with more than enough for our daily needs.
Now water tanks need a pump, which kicks in every time you use any water, to ensure water pressure when turning on a tap, taking a shower, etc. But our new place had two pumps: One for pumping the water into the tanks from the mains; the other for moving it about the property.
While the previous owner had assured us both pumps worked just fine, she didn't tell us the mains one had been left turned off.
Two days without any water wasn’t pleasant!
We had less of a struggle with electricity.
Except for the fact that this is also ‘rationed’. As in: You have access to a limited amount, per household, at any one time.
Which means, for example, while you can have the aircon on with the stove, the power will cut off if’n you try to use the aircon with the washing machine. Or the washing machine with the stove. But the aircon and the iron are just fine!
Yes, we’ve had to make a list!

More Soon...

Assembly Line

We picked up the keys to our home on the 29th of July.

And, besides the usual challenges with moving into a new home, we’ve been busy these past three months assembling furniture.
Y’see, we sold or gave away what furniture we had in NZ before moving to the UK.
And in London, we’d been lucky enough to rent a semi-furnished house. So all we’d had to do there was buy a bed, and a couple of chests of drawers.
Done on the understanding we’d get what we needed once in our forever home.

Luckily, not a problem.

And, once here, because we decided to not buy ‘already made’, we obviously had to go with the ‘assembly required’ option. So we’re assembling furniture now.
Now I know it sounds like hard work, and/or boring, but we’ve actually been thoroughly enjoying it. In fact, Alice keeps pestering me about when the next shipment’s arriving. Go figure!
So far, we’ve assembled ... wait for it ... 28 individual pieces.
That’s everything from display to kitchen units, a shoe-and-coat stand to a dining table, bathroom units to outdoor furniture. And a 3x4m umbrella for the terrace! None of it Ikea.
We have another six pieces arriving soon too. Go us, right?
This option has worked out very well for us, as I’d put aside a substantial (and over-estimated) budget for furniture and fittings and, to date, we’ve only spent 44% of it. Not too bad at all.
‘Only’ need a new kitchen and double-glazing now!

Nomnom

Around midday, by way of goodbye, the locals may wish you instead ‘un buon pranzo’ (‘a good lunch’).
That’s because food’s important here.
Not just as sustenance: It’s more a way of life. It’s preparation and presentation, and subsequent eating and enjoying, are all paramount.
Shared with family and friends, or enjoyed by yourself, it doesn’t matter.

Sometimes ... size is everything!

Walking about the streets of Modica, you can’t help but be drawn to the smells of someone cooking. Whether they’re frying garlic and onions in olive oil, stirring a pot of Caponata, making a rich pasta sauce, or just baking bread.
It’s all to die for! And it’s become a mantra with us: “Nonna’s cooking again...”
However, with it been such an essential part of a Sicilian’s very being, it comes with ‘rules’. And heaven help you if’n you don’t follow them!
For instance, Alice mentioned at a favourite cafe we’d be having würstels in (not ‘with’) a salad. The waiter was horrified! She got teased about this only yesterday ... and she’d said it months back.
The taste is so very different to what I’d (sadly) grown accustomed to in both NZ and the UK.
The tomatoes here actually taste sweet, like the fruit they are. Those white onions are delicious, and you can really taste the lettuce. And don’t get me started on the fruit!
Although, because it’s so fresh, you have to eat it quick. And check for slugs and snails.
F’sure that’s two problems I can live with!

Dionysus

The phrase "Wine, women, and song" encapsulates a far more hedonistic lifestyle than I live.
I mean, my lovely wife wouldn’t like me chasing other women, and I can’t sing a single note! However, it does contain one thing that’s forever been a big part of my ‘lifestyle’.
And that’s wine.
I’m not going to claim that that’s one of the (major) reasons I moved to Sicily, of course. But it f’sure has played a part.

In case you were confused...!

It’s just that the wine is so plentiful here, it’s cheap, and can be both lovely and lively. Oh, I’ve had some bad experiences, believe me, but on the whole not.
When you can pick up a decent bottle of DOC wine for less than €3.00; a good one for less than €5.00; and a great one for €5.00 to €15.00, what’s not to love? Way cheaper when (often) on sale, of course.
My favourites, you may ask? That’s easy: Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola and Cerasuolo di Vittoria. In about that order, too.
Now yesterday, we went for a passeggiata (walk) to the far end of the main street.
Passing what was obviously a new business, we (naturally) asked the guy there what it was going to be? Long story short, he invited us to have a look: A wine bar. Oh joy!
We came away, after tasting some of his wares (free), with the remains of the bottle we’d been tasting.
Forget women and song, life don’t get much better that this!

More Soon... 

Happenstance?

I started this blog just over 18 months ago, on the 26th of March 2020.

When we were still living in Hornchurch, London.
Six months to the day after I began, on the 26th of September 2020 then, we boarded a one-way Gatwick to Catania flight.
Which, surely, you’ve gotta count as happenstance? Something the Merriam-Webster dictionary defines as: "A circumstance especially that is due to chance..."
Or was it? Because this land we've chosen to settle in is ancient. The Greeks and Romans ruled here and, just maybe, there's a whisper of an echo of them - and their beliefs - here still?
Was the Greek god Hermes, considered the protector of travellers, involved?

Janus on (literally) a 2-faced coin!

Or was it Janus? Who the Romans believed to be the god responsible for transitions?
What, or whoever, it may've been, if you remain a sceptic, and need to be convinced? Well, we did (finally) pick up the keys to our home on the 29th of July 2021. Which just so happens to be our youngest son’s birthday.
So there you are?
Regardless, what I can say f'sure about the intervening year and a half, is that I've managed to cover everything from Brexit, €1 homes, Inspector Montalbano, why we decided on Sicily and Modica, residency, house-hunting, Covid, culture shock, 'La Bella Figura', the Government, food, heatwaves, and (of course) the bureaucracy!
Along with some rambling and ranting along the way, naturally.
Happenstance, ancient gods, or otherwise, it’s been one hell of a ride!

Favourite Month

September is grape-harvesting month too!

September is always a big month for us.
Okay, there’s what I’ve mentioned above, but it’s also mine and our eldest son’s birthday month.
Then it’s also our wedding anniversary. I, for one, won’t be pointing out which I believe to be the most important, alright?
I will say one thing though, to those planning a wedding, maybe think about doing what we did, which is get married the day before my birthday. I’ve not forgotten an anniversary yet!
Forgive me for that. That aside, I (we) couldn’t have made it here without Alice, my wife of 33 years.
She was, still is, our ‘ace in the hole’ when it came to settling here.
That’s because she speaks fluent Italian. And I don’t reckon I have to point out the huge advantage of that to anyone wanting to, or already settled here.
It was one of the most important reasons why we chose Italy to settle in post-work, post-kids, and post-Brexit!
An ‘easy’ choice over the likes of say Portugal, Spain, or Greece, which any number of people pointed out were ‘more worthy’ of retiring to. And that included some Italian friends, I have to say.
Now I do know (despite being a ‘Boomer’), that it’s f’sure an entirely different story for anyone working and/or raising a family here? I so feel for you, ‘cause it ain’t easy. ‘Stressful’ don’t begin to describe it!
I feel though, that the pit- and prat-falls are outweighed by the many advantages.

"I Am Modican...!"

After my wife explains, in her excellent Italian, we've settled here for good, I'll loudly and proudly proclaim: "Io sono modicano...!"

Alice being 'a local'...

Because I’m formally and officially a resident here now, of course.
This, however, doesn't make me a Modican. Naturally, for that you really have to have been born and/or raised here, yeah?
And, while the locals f'sure have taken some getting used to, I like 'em very much! Alright, we wouldn't have settled here otherwise, but still…
They can be exasperating!
Witness the entire lack of an ability to queue anything like 'properly'. The grudging way they'll stop at a pedestrian crossing for you, like it's somehow your fault for wanting to cross the road. How they simply can't, scratch that - won't - control their damn dogs.
And let's not be forgetting their constant staring at you.
On the other hand…
More often than not, they'll choose to smile rather than frown. As drivers, they have more patience than anywhere I've been on the mainland. How they’re more than tolerant of outsiders. Including immigrants.
And let's also not forget, it’s difficult to walk anywhere without someone saying “Ciao…!”
I talked about pit- and prat-falls being outweighed by the advantages?
While the above do appear to cancel each other out, the fact remains that they make great friends, will go out of their way to help, and are genuinely interested in you and your life (albeit to the point of nosiness!).
That’s gotta count as positive!

More Soon...

Friends Are Forever

As someone who has more history than future, it’s hard to be surprised.

However, one of the most ... yes ‘surprising’ ... things about moving to Modica is how helpful people have proven.
More than that though, those same locals and ex-pats have become friends. An entirely unexpected development!
Oh f’sure, you expect to meet people as you travel through life, as we both have, but for those people to become actual friends? That’s a whole new thing for us.
I mean, I lived in Hornchurch in London for three years, and made very few.

So very true...

Of course, old friends are best friends, and many of ours are gettin’ pretty old now! Ha!
But new friends are like honest politicians: Damned hard to find. At least so we thought, before arriving here 11 months ago now.
Y’see, one argument my wife put to me before we left the UK was: "But we don’t know anybody..."
Well, we do now, don’t we Alice?
And isn’t it a great feeling to be welcomed into someone’s home, with no caveats or expectations? Beyond ‘just’ being a friend?
Or to be greeted with a huge smile, a witty comment, kiss or hug? Just for being there, being yourself, and living amongst them now?
When we walk about this city, which we do on a daily basis, we can wave to so many people now.
It’s a great feeling, of course. And I, for one, wouldn’t wanna be anywhere else.
Not now anyways.

Moving On Up

Moving home is stressful.
And we’ve had our fair share of stress these last few weeks!

Reckon!

But, with some careful planning and organisation, it’s f’sure doable. Having said that, despite that ‘careful’, a sizable portion was done on the fly.
As most things at least appear to be done here in Sicily. So not entirely unexpected.
You have to be willing to make compromises, cut some corners, and/or be flexible.
And where you can’t do that: Don’t!
Here’s where that (in)famous Kiwi "She’ll be right!" attitude comes to the fore. Because, in my experience, the very best way to handle such stress is a willingness to accept what is, and move on with your day.
I reckon it’s the bestest way to handle stress: Both in work and in your private life.
Of course, one of my favourite quotes during this entire process (and for months now) was: "It is what it is..." As I’ve said before, while somewhat lame, it’s entirely the truth!
But we had some great help along the way.
I mentioned friends?
Friends who gave us oh-so-helpful advice about local services. Friends who allowed us to do our clothes washing at their place.
Friends who got a mate with a forklift to help move our new washing machine up to the first floor. Friends who willingly opened their home to a couple of then homeless, almost-strangers!
The list goes on.
We so owe so many people now at least a drink and/or meal!

Daily Routine

Now we’ve moved into our ‘Kiwi4everhome’, what constitutes our ‘daily routine’ then?
First off, I’m now going for an early morning walk. Just a couple thousand steps to wake me up, and greet the new day. It’s mostly just me, the street cleaners (who now know me), and the stray cats waiting for their breakfast.

This one rules them all locally...

When home, I’ve got to fire up the water pump around 7am.
Y’see, we only get water in Modica for a few hours every morning, so it’s something you have to do here! We have 3x300 litre tanks, and it takes around 45 minutes to fill them.
Then it’s onto my laptop, until Alice wakes up. That happens anywhere between 7:30 and 8:30.
And oh how I envy her! I’m lucky if’n I get six hours a night.
Then it’s shower time, and (usually) off to the shops to stock up.
Stopping for breakfast along the way, of course. It ain’t really morning ‘til we have that granita and brioche!
After that, it’s working about/on the house, until I (have to) have my nanny nap. Anyways, it’s the hottest part of the day, so…
More laptop time and/or work in the afternoon.
Sometime between 7 and 8pm my favourite time of the day kicks in: Terrace time! We go up there, sit (often eat or drink too), discuss our day, and put the world to rights. Pure bliss!
The later evening is for TV, movies or other relaxing pastimes.
I love my life!

More Soon... 

We’ve Only Gone and Done It...!!!

It’s just happened!

And what’s just happened is we are now (and finally) home-owners here in Modica!
The place I mentioned in my last blog update? Well, we picked up the keys to it from our notaio (notary) on Thursday the 29th of July.
Our youngest son’s birthday as it happens, so not a date we’ll be forgetting anytime soon.
As I said last post, its location couldn’t be more perfect: Being within a few minutes’ walk from about every retail establishment (including cafes and bars!) we’d ever require.

Thick walls onto one balcony

With its two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and good-sized terrace, it’s 87 square metres will be (and is) our ‘kiwi4everhome’.
Okay, work f’sure needs to be done on it, of course! But, except for double-glazing and window fittings (fairly expensive), and a new kitchen (cheap as here), most of the work actually required is pretty much ‘cosmetic’ only.
So, we’re not talking major and/or uber-expensive renovations here.
Now the external and internal walls are all in stone, except those for the downstairs toilet, and (at least) two foot thick in most places. And that includes the internal ones.
Because the house isn’t in direct sunlight (except for that terrace), and the airflow is great, it’s way cooler inside than out in Summer. The sun in Winter will strike the side windows, so providing warmth then.
All-in-all, a good, solid property that’ll certainly do for us.
One more than adequate for a couple of old(er) Kiwis, yeah?

However...

There's always at least one, isn’t there?
For us, it was paying for the property.
No, it wasn't raising the cash. We'd stuck rigidly to our budget, and had/have the house cost, all fees and taxes, and renovation costs covered.
However, getting our hands on those keys turned into this all-unnecessary trial. One that began after pressing 'confirm' on sending the money to the seller on Monday the 12th of July.
Afterwards, we'd chased our bank to ensure the money’d arrive, of course. But it came bouncing back into our account five days later.

Our online bank

They said they needed proof of where our money had come from. Under the EU's anti-money laundering legislation, you could argue fair enough?
But we'd transferred said funds one full month prior, and it was only now they'd decided to query it!
We hurriedly provided proof, and everything was now fine-and-dandy, so go ahead and send it again.
Then, the following Monday, they halted the transaction: Now they required proof we were actually buying a house. After much more sweating, swearing and cursing, we provided this.
But the following Friday, back it came! With no explanation this time!
By now two full weeks had passed, and the seller was getting impatient. We pressed ‘confirm’ a third time on Monday.
Then a friend asked: “She’s told her bank the money’s coming into her account, right?”
She got her money late Wednesday the 28th of July. We picked up our ‘kiwi4everhome’ keys the next day.
And: Sigh…!

But Then Again...

Despite over 30 years in IT, I remain an optimist.
Believing that things will always, maybe and perhaps, turn out for the best. And we had a classic example of both that, and how very helpful Sicilians can be.
Y’see, right after we’d picked up the keys, off we went to prepare for our shift by sweeping and mopping the floors. The cleaning took an hour or two, and I’d decided it’d be a great idea to pop out for the requisite breakfast of granita e brioche.

THAT door!

Then we discovered the door wouldn’t unlock from the inside! We’d been warned by the previous owner the lock was a bit dodgy, and to only turn it once, or else...
And I’d managed (my fault) to discover that that ‘or else…’ meant you couldn’t open the damn door!
Luckily, my wife’s hairdresser lives in the same street, so Alice phoned her to ask if she could help? Long story short, she and her husband turned up, we tossed them the keys, and they unlocked the door from the outside.
Her husband pointed out, helpfully, that we’d need a locksmith, of course.
Just then, another couple passed by: Friends of theirs. The man was carrying a cardboard box. Turned out he just happened to be a locksmith, and the box was full of locks!
He ensured we could continue to use the door, and will visit next week to change the lock. I mean: What were the chances?
Love it!

More Soon...

Damned Hot...!

George Gershwin’s line: "Summertime, and the livin' is easy..." could’ve been written for Sicily.

And it’s one of the major reasons why we’re here, of course.
Although when I wrote last post that one day it was Spring, the next Summer, I didn't expect it to hit quite so hard! Because the daily temperatures these last few weeks have been in the low to (mostly) high 30's Celsius.
I'm writing this at 06:36, and it's already 28 degrees, with a high of 38 predicted for 2pm.
Dogs and cats are refusing to move during the day, birds are walking around suffering from heat exhaustion, and the locals leave the streets of Modica almost entirely empty in the hours either side of midday.
You know it’s damned hot when those same locals complain! Who can blame them?
Although the humidity is low during the day, which means it’s okay in the shade, it don't stop you frying when you attempt to walk in the direct sunshine.

All dull and dusty at the horizon

To make matters somewhat worse, the sky's turned this dull and dusty blue due to sand from the Sahara being blown our way.
A reminder that we're only 100 miles (160 kilometres) from the nearest part of Africa here! You can feel the sand in your eyes and throat when you have to go out.
About the only sound you can hear nowadays is the whine and whir of over-used aircon units.
But then it’s watermelon season, so every cloud has its silver lining, yeah?

No Damns Given

Okay, it's damned hot, but you have to go out, of course!
There's shopping to do, and people and places to see, so on go the shorts, tees, shades, and factor 50.
Now, because of the stress of looking for our forever home is coming to a head, we've declared this week to be 'holiday week'. So yesterday we hopped on the (late) 9am bus, and off we went to the nearest beach.
Marina di Modica that is, around 20 kilometres south. With its kilometre of golden, powdery sand, and its family-friendly gradual slope into the cool waters of the Mediterranean, what's not to love?

All the shapes and sizes...

Now the beach itself proved to be a ... revelation.
Well, the people already using it were anyways. I'd not seen so many men wearing budgie smugglers since the 70's! And the majority of the women, no matter their age, sported bikinis.
We're talking all shapes and sizes here, okay? Yes: Bulgy, flabby and saggy bits, on all sexes, exposed all about the place.
It was f'sure an eye-opener!
But in a great way, I reckon. Because what was on show was 'honesty'.
I may've criticised the whole 'bella figura' thing sometimes, but here were people simply accepting what is, without disguise or artifice, and just going about enjoying their day at the beach.
Alright, they may stare, as Sicilians always do, but then they just got on with getting on.
It was so very refreshing, and I for one loved it!

One Door Closes…

Years as a contractor in the IT industry have taught me to be wary.
Wary of promises made: Verbally, and often even those in writing. And that's transferred to buying our '4everhome' here in Modica.
Y'see, we found this great property which met (most) of our requirements. However, cutting a long sorry story short, it proved to be even more illegal than both Alice and I thought it may've been.
So, we wasted two months waiting to find this out, and then had the (not) pleasure of watching the real estate agent representing it scramble about for excuses as to why he didn't, in fact, know this!
And: Bollocks!

View from 'our' maybe terrace

But then, only a few days before we found all of this out, a new listing popped up on one of the many real estate websites I’m following.
A private sale this time, for a house whose location couldn't have been more perfect, as it was only a few minutes’ (mostly flat) walk from two supermarkets, the pharmacy, and about every other retail establishment we required.
It had two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and this nice terrace. Totalling 87 square metres, they wanted around €920 per square metre, which is okay for the historic centre of Modica.
But still more than we wanted to pay, of course!
Three visits later, two in company with our geometra (surveyor) and builder, and we were about ready to begin negotiating. Which is now complete, I’m happy to report.
So watch this space!

More Soon...

The Prick

Being of a certain age, and a resident, I was entitled to the anti-Covid vaccine.

Forget 'entitled' though, I'm a firm believer that everyone should get it. For your own, and the sake of those around you, it's a no-brainer!
Anyways, happily armed with both my tessera sanitaria (health insurance) and codice fiscale (tax code) numbers, I went onto the Siciliacoronavirus.it website to book my jab.

Ouch...!

Now imagine my surprise when I found the booking system claimed I was either not in the right category (60-plus) or my numbers were wrong.
I put it down to they weren't actually ready for my age group yet: This being Sicily and all. So, every day for the next week, I tried again.
It took that long for me to recall my own previous blog post: 'Italy equals bureaucracy'? What tipped the balance was my younger-than-me wife also becoming eligible for the jab.
Because I knew my details were right, so therefore the problem had to be at their end, didn't it? As in: Some faceless bureaucrat hadn't put my details into the system properly. There was an email address, so I duly sent one firmly (but oh so politely!) pointing out I couldn't book a jab.
Two weeks later they replied. And, wonder-of-wonders, four days after that, both Alice and I were taking the obligatory selfie outside the vaccination centre!
Despite our sore shoulders, we both felt elated, like this great weight had been lifted.
Which, of course, it had!

Rhythm of Life

With Summer's sudden arrival and Sicily now zona gialla (yellow zone), life's taken a turn for the better.

Spring sprang!

By 'sudden arrival' I mean just that: One day it was Spring, the next Summer.
Even some locals appeared to be caught off guard. They hadn't finished wearing their Spring wardrobe when the first hot days dropped, and we were greeted with the sight of some walking about the place in jackets and scarves, despite it being in the mid-high 20's!
This could be part of the whole 'bella figura' ('beautiful figure') thing I explained some time back though. As in: It's still officially Spring, so I 'have' to wear this, alright?
Now weather-wise, the great thing is the humidity.
The lack of it, that is. I'm writing this at 08:42, it's 23 degrees and sunny (high of 28 today), but the humidity's a low 20 precent. Which is frankly great!
Otherwise, we'd fry every time we left the house, 'cause there are no clouds, just this endless blinding but brilliant blue vault overhead.
Long may it last which, we’re assured by locals, it f'sure will!
The other piece of good news is, of course, that we're back in yellow.
Which means, amongst many other obvious benefits, we’re free to travel about the place again. Something we do have to start doing more of.
Don’t get me wrong, Modica’s great, but we absolutely need to explore more of our island home.
Time to look at getting a car then?

True Colours

It was like Modica was re-born this week.
Emerging from its two-month forced hibernation. And at the end of each school and working day it's now heaving with happy (or at least happier) people. Milling about, and getting in each other's way, as only Italians can do.
All because of last Monday's change of zone from orange to yellow, of course.

Don't mind if I do...!

Due to outdoor seated drinking and dining being allowed again: Slowly at first, but with increasing urgency, tables, chairs, umbrellas and signage began popping up all about the place.
The tourists have returned too. At least, the local ones have. Modica now playing host to increasing numbers of non-Modican and non-Sicilian Italians.
I fully expect this trickle to become an almost-flood in the next few months as both EU and non-EU visitors dramatically increase current numbers.
And I, for one, am actually looking forward to it. For both selfish and altruistic reasons, I hasten to add! This is now my home town, and I want it to thrive once again: I have skin in this game now, after all.
We (now) have many friends and acquaintances in the hospitality industry here, and they've f'sure been hurting these last 15 months, and not just for the last few.
Sadly, some places haven't, and likely won't now, re-open.
Capitalism at work? Sure. But these were once someone's dream. Now shattered, like so much since March 2020.
But we've been told again and again: Sicilians are resilient.
So there’s hope!

More Soon... 

In A Word

Italy equals burocrazia (bureaucracy), and there's no getting around that.

One of the things Alice can often be heard to say is: "Why do things have to take so long?"
It's frustrating, f’sure!
Especially as I have no pithy comeback, except to say: "It is what it is..." Which, while lame, is entirely the truth.
Although sometimes, just to mix it up a little, I may add: "...but we knew this before we arrived."
Her look says it all at this point, of course.
Why’s it so bad?

One way street ... both ways?

From a foreign (and our) perspective, Italy appears to be unorganised: A nightmare of long and often useless procedures. Now I made a career of creating procedures, so reckon I can distinguish 'good' ones from 'bad'.
And they're mostly the latter here.
When Alice complained to a friend who runs a cafe, she just shrugged and said "Ah, si…" That, apparently, was that!
It's not only procedures though.
You could argue the real problem is the slowness, inefficiency, and downright negligence of some working in ('for') the public system. Unless you 'know someone', but that's a whole different thing!
However, one of the great (only) advantages here is that once you're 'in', you're 'in'!
When you can wave your codice fiscale (tax code), carta d’identita (identity card) and/or tessera sanitaria (health insurance card) about, then the system finally begins to work for you.
And we have all those now!
It's just the getting of them that was a nightmare.

The Government’s Fault?

Just why is it so very bad then?
Well, one (very good) reason is that - besides sunshine and sights, food and wine, art and architecture, fashion and design - Italy is also famous for its 60-plus governments since the end of WWII.
Which means the infrastructure currently in place, tends to stay that way, because it takes time to change something so ingrained.

This year's incumbent

Now, there's no argument that in order to make things better, current procedures need to be simplified, made more user-friendly. or even scrapped altogether. But successive administrations need some time in office in order to address these issues.
Something governments in my home country and the UK, for example, have the luxury of years in office to do. And, sometimes, even have!
Here though, with the average lifespan of a post-war government being only 15 months, each have had barely enough time to change the name on the door, let alone changing something as all-encompassing as la burocrazia.
So, something that at least sort of works, albeit poorly, is pushed way down the list of things to do before I lose power.
What's needed, of course, is an intelligent and creative approach to the problem and, while many politicians have bravely attempted to tackle this massive problem, they've mostly failed.
Because the very bureaucracy they're attempting to reform resists mightily any such attempt. Meaning many changes often fall victim to the very thing they're attempting to change.
But there is still hope here.

On the Ground

And our experiences in Modica?
I think the expression: "Could've been worse..." works best.
Our introduction, while still in the UK, was applying for our codici fiscali (tax codes) via the Italian Embassy. These codes were important: Key to about every other certificate, contract, and document we needed.
The process took six long weeks, but we got 'em in the end. A good first introduction then.
Once here, amongst other things, we had to get private health insurance, and prove we had €9,000 to live on.

So off we went to the comune (local council) to apply for our residence certificate.
And here's where we met our first real obstacle. The comune claiming not only that we didn't need insurance, but the money had to be in an Italian bank. Both of which contradicted what the Italian government itself said we needed!
We argued, but they wouldn't budge.
End result? A back-and-forth with the local health department, who stated we needed residence before we could enrol with them. Something we already knew.
This took days but, in the end, the comune caved. Saying if we wanted to waste our money on private insurance, that was our concern!
They wouldn’t, however, be moved on the bank account thing, so we hastily set up one with an Italian online bank. Which they were loath to accept at first!
It did work out in the end, and we parted ‘friends’, but…
Our first real introduction to la burocrazia Italiana here!

More Soon...

Still Looking

We've been looking for our 'kiwi4everhome' for a year now.

And I have to say it's proven to be a somewhat slow and fraught process.
Of course, getting residency in Modica has taken precedence during much of that intervening period. That, and we've only had boots on the ground here for six months.
Regardless, we've been very actively seeking since December last year, and still our forever home has proven elusive.
It's not like there's a lack of resources here: There are around 15 local real estate agencies, f'sure no lack of properties, and we have all the time in the world, of course.

Nope!

And that time’s been spent looking at everything from 'doer-uppers' (ruins) to ex-holiday homes (ready to move into), and about everything in between those extremes.
Recently, we've even 'lowered' our standards, and actually looked at a couple of top-floor apartments. Something we swore (dammit!) we'd never do!
We've been drawing on the advice of helpful and friendly locals, backed up by our own eyes and knowledge, and so are entirely aware of both what and where we should be looking.
I can’t believe we're asking for too much and, okay, you could argue we're being a little fussy here, but it is a forever home after all.
So far, we've had builders look at five properties, and only been serious about two of them. As in: Begun the negotiation process. Neither worked out, but we carry on carrying on!
Then yesterday, we found another...

Social Media

There's no shortage of great, informative, and (above all) friendly Italian-based social media sites.
And I belong to five Facebook groups dedicated to expat life in Italy and/or Sicily, in addition to following both the NZ and British Embassies here, of course.
To say they've all been 'lifesavers', would be a massive understatement. To be frank, I know we'd be way more stressed than we have been without their help and support at times!

Sigh...

Examples include the "UK Citizens' rights in Italy - Beyond Brexit" group helping with both our residency and Tessera Sanitaria (Health Insurance Card) applications.
The "Expats Living in Sicily" group has enabled us to get great locally-based advice, while the "UK Bank Accounts & Brexit" group has proven helpful for just that.
It has to be a no-brainer for anyone either thinking about moving or already here to join such groups. I for one highly recommend it.
But it's not just all about the advice, and 'here's my experience' thing, of course. Because social media is just that, isn't it: Social.
And membership has enabled us to meet up for drinkies with other Modica and surroundings-based expats. And there are a few of us here.
We’re not the only ones who like Sicilian Baroque, Modica chocolate, and Montalbano!
Although it amuses me that many group members go on about missing Yorkshire tea, HP Sauce, Marmite, and a 'good' Indian curry.
I mean: I don’t bang on about how much I miss Wattie's Tomato Sauce...

The Dreaded 'C-Word' Part 3

It seems that, as inevitably as this Spring has followed Winter, it's time to talk again of ... the coronavirus.
Back in November 2020, I stated that Italy, along with the rest of Europe, was riding the second wave.

The colours of Italy

Well, it's third time unlucky, 'cause here we are in the midst of la terza ondata (the third wave)!
There’ve been over 170,000 cases in Sicily, out of a population of 5 million, since the beginning of the pandemic. Of those, about 150,000 have recovered but, sadly, over 4,500 have not.
Given the island's current testing positivity rate is well over three percent now (although it's over seven percent nationally), we're now back in 'Zona Arancione' ('Orange Zone') which, while it f’sure ain’t good, is less bad than the majority of Italy's other regions, which find themselves in red.
At least we can still move freely in our local comune (council area), as long as we're masked, and most businesses are still open. And, while all cafes, bars and restaurants remain closed, they're open for takeaways, which is better than nothing.
Nationally, over the Easter period, the whole country will be placed into red. Also on the down side, it looks like Sicily'll stay in orange until May, but fingers are always crossed!
There are still numpties about, but the vast majority locally are doing it right, which I never thought Sicilians would (could) do.
So, despite everything, there's some reason for optimism here at least.

More Soon... 

Anniversary

I thought I'd write a quick update to mark an (important to me anyway) milestone.

This short post marks the fact that my "kiwi4everhome" blog has been up for exactly one year today!

Valid reasons all...!

My first post was uploaded on Thursday the 26th of March 2020. Just over 2,000 km (or 1,250 miles) northwest of our current address, of course.
It covered €1 homes for sale, how my wife appeared to show some interest, and how (in the end) Alice's response was ... somewhat muted.
Nevertheless, six months later to the day, on the 26th of September 2020, we boarded our Gatwick to Catania flight.
Spooky, huh?
Regardless, divine inspiration, merely 'meant to be', simple coincidence, or none of the above, here we are in Modica, Sicily!
And this afternoon we're off to scope out yet another 'possibility'. That is: Another property that may, hopefully and perhaps, fulfil the majority of our requirements for that 'forever home' we've been looking for in these last six months.
That is, after all, the web address of this blog, and our motivo principale (principal motive) for being here.
During the last six months, remembering much time was given to getting ourselves established, we've only been serious about two properties.
This'll change in the next few weeks and months, as we devote more and more time to our ever-hopeful search. Spurred on by the fact that, as of yesterday, we now have every single document and card required to reside here.
Wish us luck!

More Soon...