I made a vow when we first arrived here in September 2020.
And thus far I’ve managed to keep it, I’m proud to say! No deviation. I’ve been all unswerving in my loyalty. Unswayed by others’ opinions.
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| Cheers...! |
Okay ... at home. What happens when we visit other people’s homes? Well, in my defence here, I have no (self-)control over that, now do I?
To date, I’ve managed to (heroically) taste 28 distinct local rosso varieties or blends, from 93 different producers. And, if we’re counting different vintages (‘years’) from said producers, well that total would be 124. Concerning the latter, for example, I’ve had three vintages (2018, 2020 and 2021) of Nicosia’s lovely ‘Pinot Nero’.
Now the excellent grape-growing climate here on the island results in the fruit having high sugar levels. What does that mean? Simply put, it means a higher alcoholic content!
Some examples here would be Judeka’s excellent 2020 ‘Cerasuolo di Vittoria’, which was 14%, as was Cusumano’s ‘Nero d’Avola’ from both the 2020 and 2021 vintages. Meanwhile, at the other end of the scale, we can find Cantina Paolini’s wonderful 2020 and 2021 ‘Frappato’ rated at a ‘mere’ 12%, as was Cantina Settesoli’s vegan (yup!) ‘Nerello Mascalese’ from 2019.
And 12% is the lowest I’ve had here!
As I put it last month: The local wines both tickle the palate, and pack a punch. So many wines.
So little time!
Specialities
Last time I mentioned the food here is to die for?
Modica, despite being this small rural city, is known for its characteristic foods.
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| Nom nom Mpanatigghi... |
They were likely first created by local pastry cooks during the 16th century Spanish domination of Sicily. Given its name is almost unpronounceable to non-locals, visitors often order them by pointing a finger at them. Like I first did!
Talking of chocolate? We’re also famous for ‘Cioccolato di Modica’.
Another Spanish introduction which tastes nothing like normal chocolate. First the toasted cocoa seeds are (traditionally) hand-ground and cold-processed; the resulting bitter paste then having non-melted sugar added.
Resulting in a ‘crunchy’ texture, with both a sweet and bitter taste. Flavourings can include anything from salt or ginger; to pistachios, citrus fruit, or almonds; or cinnamon, vanilla, or chili pepper. It’s an acquired taste!
Then there’s ‘Scaccia’. Originally a 17th century peasant dish, today it’s ‘native’ to Ragusa and Syracuse provinces, and very popular in Modica.
This baked savoury dish could be described as a cross between lasagne and calzone pizza, or perhaps stuffed flatbread?
Whatever, it’s a thin rectangular layer of dough, filled with ingredients, then folded on itself several times. Its common fillings include various combinations of ricotta, onion, cheese, tomato, or eggplant. But can include potatoes, sausage (my favourite!), broccoli, etc.
And it can be eaten hot or cold.
Talking of chocolate? We’re also famous for ‘Cioccolato di Modica’.
Another Spanish introduction which tastes nothing like normal chocolate. First the toasted cocoa seeds are (traditionally) hand-ground and cold-processed; the resulting bitter paste then having non-melted sugar added.
Resulting in a ‘crunchy’ texture, with both a sweet and bitter taste. Flavourings can include anything from salt or ginger; to pistachios, citrus fruit, or almonds; or cinnamon, vanilla, or chili pepper. It’s an acquired taste!
Then there’s ‘Scaccia’. Originally a 17th century peasant dish, today it’s ‘native’ to Ragusa and Syracuse provinces, and very popular in Modica.
This baked savoury dish could be described as a cross between lasagne and calzone pizza, or perhaps stuffed flatbread?
Whatever, it’s a thin rectangular layer of dough, filled with ingredients, then folded on itself several times. Its common fillings include various combinations of ricotta, onion, cheese, tomato, or eggplant. But can include potatoes, sausage (my favourite!), broccoli, etc.
And it can be eaten hot or cold.
Security
How can you enjoy the wonderful local food, and that superb island vintage, if’n you don’t feel safe doing it?
So, let’s talk about the state of policing here: A confusing subject, given the bewildering array of law enforcement agencies!
Now the ‘Carabinieri’ are part of the armed forces, so come under the authority of the Ministry of Defence. Housed in barracks, they have a variety of purely military duties.
However, when it comes to internal public order and security, they work with the Ministry of the Interior, thus also acting as a regular police force, responsible for protecting public order and detecting crime.
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| Lamborghini used for rushed organ transplants |
Their responsibilities include general investigative and law enforcement duties. They’re also responsible for the security of motorway, rail, and waterway networks.
Unsurprisingly, given the vagueness of their assigned duties, there’s significant overlap between these two agencies!
The ‘Guardia di Finanza’ (‘Financial Police’) are a little different.
They report to the Ministry of Economy and Finance. Also a militarised police force, they’re responsible for dealing with financial crime, smuggling, border policing, and airport customs duties. They’re the primary anti-drug agency.
Last, and certainly least, we come to the 'Polizia Locale' ('Local Police'). These comune-based police forces are responsible for traffic control, licensing, enforcing city bylaws, and local crime prevention and policing.
Here, it’s the 'Polizia Locale Modica'. Who knows what they do all day?
I f’sure don’t!
