That is, two days before the UK government had lifted their advice about not travelling to Europe, on the expectation this ban would be lifted before we flew back on the 17th.
Due to cost, limited flights, and the need to transit, we landed late, so overnighted in Catania. making our way to Ragusa by bus the next morning.
Our first (and lasting) impressions of Sicily were very positive.
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| Sicily has an app! |
On the Friday we'd agreed to meet an estate agent in Ragusa, who claimed to have 'many' properties that met our limited budget.
As we (me) had way underestimated the time it’d take to walk between Ragusa Ibla (the historic part) and Ragusa Superiore (the 'new' part), we arrived late.
Only to find he wasn't there. Apparently he'd been called away, and wouldn't return until later in the day. No text or phone call telling us this, of course.
Somewhat disheartened, we took a chance and went to another agency I'd contacted previously, where Elisa proved more than helpful.
In fact, she showed us three properties. One of which was very much a 'possibility'.
Happier, we spent the weekend sampling Ibla's many (cheap) delights.
Which included the vino, cannoli, arancini, and caponata!
Ragusa Verses Modica
Not wanting to limit ourselves to one city, we'd also decided to look at Modica, 25 minutes away by train.
I'd made an appointment with an estate agency for Monday afternoon, so off we went first thing.
We found Modica had a very different vibe from its bigger neighbour. One which we both preferred from the get-go.
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| Modica |
Then there was the fact it felt more like a 'working' city. With fruit and vege sellers, fish suppliers, and mechanics just around the corner from smart fashion shops, cafes, and trattorias. In turn giving way to Baroque cathedrals, churches, public buildings, and a medieval castle.
In addition, with only 55,000 people, it was both big and small enough to have everything we needed in one place. Around the same size, in fact, as the city I grew up in, back in New Zealand.
Then we met Ramsay, the real estate agent.
What a find he proved to be: English, he'd lived in Modica for the last 15 years, and was a wealth of local and helpful knowledge.
At last, someone we both understood!
We spent a happy hour conversing about the local situation, the pleasures, and the bureaucracy, before going to look at some properties. One of which showed great promise.
To me, anyways.
What's it Like?
As we went in July, we expected heat.
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| What a constrast! |
So, despite the low-ish humidity, and the great photo ops, only foolish tourists like us ventured out in the early afternoon.
I'm now a firm advocate of the 'siesta': Somewhere between 1pm to 4pm locally.
The locals were very friendly.
Kinda expected from cafes, etc., but I'm talking general population here.
Like the old lady who stopped us and told us to visit the Maria delle Scale Church to enjoy the view of Ragusa Ibla.
Or the taxi driver who came over to chat while we were waiting for the bus. Or the lady who told her all about living locally, when Alice only asked her about the parking.
And everybody who said 'Buon giorno' while passing, or then stopped to chat for no apparent reason.
Both Ragusa and Modica are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Forming part of the Val di Noto geographical region, an area renowned for its beautiful Baroque style and era towns and cities.
Okay, only because they had to be rebuilt due to an enormous earthquake that devastated south-east Sicily in 1693!
But let's not dwell on that, shall we?
And the down side?
Stray cats, and animal faeces, everywhere. Both cities needed a good clean. And, due to migration, loadsa places up for sale.
But then the cost of living, and weather, was everything promised.
And nowhere’s perfect, amiright?
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