A Sad Fact?

Death, of course, is ‘only’ the final act of living.

And it’s so very common. Literally an everyday occurrence. I mean: We’ve all lost someone, will lose someone and, being mortal, will eventually lose ourselves.
Why bring this up? Am I gettin’ maudlin because I have way more history than future?
Nope!
It’s just that here in Sicily (and throughout much of Italy) death is accepted as a part of living. In that it’s not hidden away. Notices of passing are not consigned to the ‘Births, Deaths & Marriages’ column of the local newspaper, as they are in most Anglo-Saxon countries.

Death notice boards

Sounds weird I know, but you see funeral posters and mourning notices everywhere here.
And I do mean ‘everywhere’! There are at least four dedicated death notice boards right here in Modica Bassa.
Every church also has notices of upcoming funerals, or anniversary masses, on its railings outside. And then, notices are often fixed to the outside of the deceased’s home, and throughout the local neighbourhood too.
The latter staying fixed to the wall until time and weather cause them to fade away.
There’s an open honesty about this that I find … endearing. It’s not hidden away: It’s celebrated and broadcast so everyone knows of their passing, and where and when they can pay their final respects.
Sadly, we’ve found people we knew, but didn’t know they’d died, this way.
Note that I’m not in any hurry to have my picture plastered about town, okay?

Un Caffè

On a lighter note: Ordering a coffee is one of life’s great pleasures!
Note that “un caffè” here means “an espresso” ... and nothing else.

My personal coffee pot...

Since being responsible for importing the first coffee beans into Europe, its consummation in Italy has grown somewhat! Particularly after the 1884 invention of the espresso machine in Turin. Followed by Alfonso Bialetti’s 1933 invention of the iconic stovetop moka pot.
Since then, of course, Italy’s built up this coffee culture which is admired (and imitated) world-wide.
My native NZ was a little late to the ‘coffee culture’ scene, with espresso machines only popping up in cafés from the 1980’s. However, it’s worth mentioning that instant coffee was invented in 1890 by New Zealander David Strang!
Anyways, and like everything here, there are ‘rules’ when it comes to drinking this wonderful beverage.
For example: Cappuccino is a strictly breakfast drink, made to accompany your morning cornetto (croissant) or brioche. And any native who orders one after around 11am would f’sure get a sideways look.
Although us foreigners may just about get away with it: I’m looking at you, Alice!
I’ve actually cut back on drinking coffee here. In my defence though, that was instant, and I’m now exclusively an espresso-junky! Rich, dark, strong and lovely, I only have 2-3 cups a day now.
Okay … my moka pot is a ‘4-espresso-cup’ model, but still!
Another rule? Never wash your moka pot with soap: That built-up residue is key to the flavour.
Lesson learnt!

OMG

I’ve written about death and coffee ... so it must be time for religion then!
Due to us now being firmly in the grip of the ‘Festival Season’ both here in Modica and throughout Sicily.
That is: Religious festivals. F’sure a ‘thing’ here in this most Catholic corner of Italy. The locals do appear to be more religious than many other parts of this country I’ve lived in or visited.
The bells being testament to that! Pun intended. Not sorry.
They peel rigorously at 8am, noon and 8pm every day; ring the quarter hours; and also 10 minutes prior to mass.
But what really draws the punters in are the aforementioned festivals. The city being packed with locals, visitors and tourists for two consecutive festival weekends.

“Madonna Vasa Vasa” (left) & “Festival di San Giorgio” (right)

First came the “Madonna Vasa Vasa” (“Madonna Kiss Kiss”), on Easter Sunday.
Here the statues of “The Risen Christ” and “The Madonna” were paraded separately through the streets before meeting, when the Madonna joyfully kisses Jesus.
Then last weekend there was the “Festival di San Giorgio”.
St. George being Modica’s patron saint. Now his equestrian statue, with obligatory dragon, is carried all about the place: From the valley bottom to the highest point in the city.
An eight-hour journey!
I do have to say that while we loved both festivals, it was San Giorgio’s that made the biggest impression. The joy on every face, either participating or watching, was a … revelation. Especially given the last two years.
And there’s more to come!

More Soon...