“Carpe Diem”

What will 2025 bring us?

Dr. Seuss said: “Only you can control your future.” In a personal sense, that’s very true, of course.
But more broadly, that’s not for the likes of me. Not anymore. I don’t have any control over the future.
Back in the day, I marched against apartheid, war generally, and nuclear war in particular, and was more than proud to do so.
But my days of trying to change the world are well and truly over, I’m afraid. And, frankly, I don’t miss such responsibility.
Why am I writing this?

Because I feel the future belongs to those with more of it than me. It belongs to my children, their children (of which I have a few!) … and not some 66-year-old retiree living out his remaining years (in bliss!) on a sun-drenched island in the Mediterranean, if’n you know what I mean?
Anyways, no matter how optimistic (or boastful!) I am, I know I have way more past than future. And that’s okay by me! I came to terms with that many years ago.
So, if you’re younger than me (and many of you are), then 2025 is yours so much more than mine, so make the most of it!
Why “Carpe Diem” as a title? Because I reckon it applies more to me than to you. I may be able to enjoy the moment, but you still must make your own future.
So, I wish you well for 2025 … and beyond!

‘Non-Time’

Isn’t this the strangest time of year?

"Nom nom..."

I’m talking about that period between Christmas Eve and New Years Day. That ‘non-time’ when most people are either on holiday or at least have some time off.
That period when you routinely find yourself overindulging in food and/or drink; when you’re often ‘forced’ to spend time with extended family; and when you can play ‘catchup’ on some things about the house, or in your life, that you couldn’t (or wouldn’t) make time for during the rest of the year...
When it comes to food, I’m very much a ‘traditionalist’ at Christmas: I’m talking turkey with all the trimmings here, despite the disapproving looks from some locals when we pointed out that’s what we’d be having (again) this year!
Disapproval aside, I only choose things like turkey because I enjoy the challenge of cooking it. Despite the fact Alice always claims it stresses me out! Which, okay, it sometimes does. But still...
When it comes to family, we f’sure weren’t ‘forced’ to spend time with them: We welcomed it!
That’s because we were lucky enough to have our youngest son Anton here at Christmas, which made it uber-special, of course.
As for ‘catchup’?
I worked on Alice’s family tree, something I’d put aside for quite a while, now reckoning it was the perfect time of year to do so, as it is supposed to be all about family, ain’t it?
I do hope you and yours also enjoyed this ‘non-time’ of year…

Happy Anniversary

Four years ago, this month!

It wasn't to be!

Four years since the Brexit ‘transition period’ ended, and four years since we received our ‘Certificato Contestuale di Residenza, di Stato di Famiglia’ (‘Contextual Certificate of Residence, Family Status’) on Friday the 11th December 2020.
What that mouthful of a document signified was we were officially now residents in Italy; in Sicily; and (more importantly for us) in the Municipality of Modica. And we’d gotten said status only 20 days before the end of the transition deadline of the 31st December 2020.
So: Phew!
The process was long, fraught, and f’sure not without some humour. I mean, even to get our hands on said ‘certificato’ involved something of a comic twist.
Y’see, we had to of course jump through loadsa bureaucratic hoops (read my 2020 blog entries!), all of which culminated in presenting a ‘Dichiarazione di Residenza’ (‘Residence Declaration’) form to the comune on Friday the 30th October 2020.
Now, to get residency, both my research stated and the comune declared, was a 45-day-long process. At the end of which they’d (hopefully) cough up our certificate, and we could get on with our lives. Given this, and that we’d heard nothing in the interim, and with that 31st December deadline looming, Alice rang the comune to chase up our residency request.
The end result of which was the signora at the comune asking: “But why do you want a certificate, when you’re already resident here?” Seems It’d already been approved.
See? Funny that…!

More Soon...

Just One More Slice

Christmas is just around the corner, don’t you know.

Sorry for the reminder, but there it is! And I’m not really that sorry, as I do love this time of year. You’ll not be getting no “Bah, humbug” from me, I’m afraid!
Of course, as we slide gently into December here, naturally I’m wondering what Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) has for me this year.
Socks? Underwear? Knitted scarves and gloves? A new iPhone? I don’t think so.

More likely a glass or three of Sicilian dessert wine, accompanied by several generous slices of a locally-made artisan (‘handmade’) “Panettone”, all the while listening to and ‘enjoying’ Christmas songs on Spotify or YouTube.
Speaking of Panettone, we’ve already ordered a couple. This year from “Fede”, a most excellent “Dolceria, Pasticceria, Gelateria e Caffetteria”. That is: A sweet, pastry, ice cream and coffee shop up in Modica Alta.
The festive season f’sure being of the (over-)indulgent “No Diet Yet” variety in Modica!
Now, we’ve been enjoying local Panettoni every year since that first Christmas back in 2020. Always following our strict “Share the Love” mantra, we’ve ordered them from about every pasticceria down here in Modica Bassa, so this year it’s Alta’s turn.
Now, back in both the UK and NZ, we’d sometimes buy a Panettone for Christmas. Although, in truth, we’d always found them ... somewhat disappointing. Being of the (overly) ‘mass-produced’ variety as they were. Here though?
Bring it on, Modica … I’m up for the challenge!

Chrissy Bling

The ‘Christmas Season’ begins way later here than you (and I) may be used to.
The season only ‘formally’ kicking off on the 8th of December. A Sunday this year as it happens.
Unfortunately for those still working. I say ‘unfortunately’ because it’s a national holiday in Italy, and they don’t do the whole “carry-it-over-to-the-next-working-day” thing here!
The 8th of December is the celebration of the “Immacolata Concezione della Beata Vergine Maria” (“Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary”).
This mouthful usually being reduced to simply the ‘Immaculate Conception’, and it’s Catholic Church dogma, first proclaimed by Pope Pius IX in 1854, at which time the church established the Virgin Mary was preserved from original sin from the first instant of her conception. As distinguished from the virginal conception of Jesus, it must be noted.
And now you know!

Chrissy decorations 2021

What does this mean for life here in Modica though? Well, for one thing there’s a general absence of ‘Christmas bling’ on display here. Alright, and f’sure some businesses (and homes) are sporting the ‘usual suspects’: Christmas trees, rather rotund bearded gents dressed in red-and-white, metres of tinsel and/or flashing lights.
But for the most part here, you’d note a lack of those ostentatious, over-the-top, uber-commercial shop window displays you’ll see in your own high street in NZ or the UK. Or Christmas lights turning night into day along said streets. Until the 8th December anyways.
Now I’ve tried to stop Alice putting up decorations prior?
I’ve always failed…

Brass Monkeys

Always be prepared to revisit stuff!
I mean, looking back at what I wrote the other day, I’m not so sure now that: “...as we slide gently into December here” is factual? I, for one, don’t like the fact it’s getting cold here now.
Albeit ‘cold’ is a relative term, of course! For us here in the sunny (sunnier, at least!) south of Europe, ‘cold’ means temperatures falling to single digits celcius.

No comment necessary...

Not minus, mind you, as that rarely seems to happen here. Although the “Feels Like” option on the weather forecast app can point out that it f’sure can feel like a minus sometimes.
I’m only pointing this out now because tonight’s the night! The night when the temperature drops to a bone-chilling 7 degrees celcius. And the next 10 days ain’t much better either, swinging between 7 and 9 degrees only. “Brass Monkey Weather” in other words!
Now before you type “Wimp!” or some other equally hurtful comment in response to this post, please to remember I’m out walking most mornings way before the sun comes up. I don’t go out looking like the “Michelin Man”, but I will be sporting at least three layers of clothing when I do, alright?
As I like to put it: “Mrs Kelly didn’t raise no fools!”
And then there’s my poor babies: My cactuses and succulents aren’t exactly fans of the chill either. And who am I to blame them? Like me, they prefer the warm…
Bring on Summer…

More Soon...

Autumn Comfort

We’re sliding ‘comfortably’ into Autumn here in Modica.

Very welcome Autumnal rain

However, I do have to say that although I’m now wearing a light jacket for my early morning walks these days … I’m still sporting shorts! Something I certainly wasn’t doing this time last year.
There are other subtle signs that this year, thus far, the weather’s ended up being both milder and kinder.
Like the fact that ‘my babies’ (my cactuses) are still outside on our terrace.
Now, as I keep extensive records(!), I note that in 2023 I last watered them all on Thursday 19th October, and that all my small and/or ‘cold-intolerant’ cacti had been moved indoors on Saturday 4th November. The latter due to the temperature dropping to below 10 celcius. Which, this year, isn’t predicted to happen for at least the next 10 days, which is great!
‘Great’ for two reasons: One minor; one fairly major.
The ‘minor’ one being that they get to enjoy the sunshine longer this year, hopefully making their dormancy period shorter. And yes, many do ‘sleep’ over Winter.
So, what’s that ‘major’ reason then? Well … that’d be the fact that Alice don’t like my babies being in the house. Apparently, they take up too much room; I’m being way too fussy; and they’re an annoyance in general!
Having said all that: I just know she loves ‘em as much as I do.
And we’re both so uber-happy to enjoy the still-warm/hot days, cooler evenings, and for now lighter mornings…

Slowing Down?

At this time of year, as far as public entertainments concerned anyway, things are also slowing down.
Somewhat. I mean: (Almost) gone are the religious processions for this year; (nearly) over are the outdoor family occasions; and (about) finished are those athletic events along our street and alleys.
It’s a time for slowing down, for taking stock, and for reflecting on the year that’s been, given the next one’s practically just around the corner.
Sorry ‘bout the reminder it’s now only 55 days until Christmas, by the way!

"ChocoModica 2024"

Anyways, that’s what should be happening this time of year. But that isn’t really happening here. Because our comune are desperate to somehow keep the momentum going. Fighting against the seasonal tide to try and keep local euros, as well as those precious tourist euros, pounds, dollars, yen and yuan, flowing into Modica’s coffers.
Which they kinda have to do, given their current poor … fiscal situation.
Not that I’m complaining here, you have to understand! It’s great to be able to have an excuse to wrap up, get out and mingle with the other locals in the ‘depths’ of Winter.
So, what’s coming up then?
There’s this year’s three-day "ChocoModica" festival to (sort of) look forward to, come December. We’re not fans, but…
Then, we’re already three tribute bands into the eight tribute band "ReplaymusicFestival" concert series running every Saturday until late November.
And there’s much more coming along too.
Can’t say we’ll be getting bored here anytime soon.

Keep Busy!

One thing retirement (early and otherwise) has taught me is you gotta keep busy!
Do something. Hobby, interest, whatever. Just do … something!

A lesson hammered home when we walk about the city. Y'see, each and every day, without fail, at the main roundabout down here in Modica Bassa, you'll see a 'gaggle' of men, most of whom (though not all) are obviously well past retirement age.
I'm talking anywhere between a few and a crowd of up to several dozen.
Either just standing about in clumps talking (loudly) to and at each other, or else they've grabbed chairs from nearby restaurants and bars … and are then sitting there in clumps talking (loudly) to and at each other!
As an aside here: That latter activity has, in fact, seen at least one café here 'lock up' their chairs to prevent this!
Anyways, why are they there, and not elsewhere doing … something? Don't know.
Although one has to suspect that it's because they've been 'kicked out' of their respective homes by their long-suffering spouses, and told to stay away until it's 'pranzo time' (lunch time)? Because they do disappear around lunch time, only to reappear again mid-afternoon. And of course!
It's not just Sicilians either: Many of the older North Africans here also gather about in their own clumps dotted about the roundabout. Although they’ll do so in their own areas: There's no mingling, I'm afraid.
You’ll not see the older women here doing the same thing.

More Soon...

Harvest Time

September has rolled around once again.

As it always seems to! My favourite month because what’s not to love?

It’s the month when olive-pressing begins in Sicily. Albeit early harvesting, with the bulk being carried out from October.
And my favourite: Grape-picking season is in full swing here too! At least for the white wine varieties, their season actually began last month, although some were picked way back in July.
It’s the picking of the red wine varieties that’ll be kicking off this month. Those who know me, will know this is my favourite type of vino.
I’m f’sure looking forward to the first Vino novello making an appearance on my local supermarket shelves in late October. Vino novello (‘young’ or ‘new wine’) is a light and fruity red wine similar to its French ‘cousin’ Beaujolais nouveau.
As an aside here: Global warming has a hand when it comes to harvest times. The bulk of the white wine grapes being ready weeks earlier this year than last, while in 1980 the reds used to be picked as late as November!
Anyways, soon enough there’ll be figs (my wife’s favourite), and not forgetting the lovely Fichi d’India (‘Indian Figs’ or ‘Prickly Pears’). The latter cactus fruit not to be confused with the former, of course! These ‘figs’ being another favourite of mine, due to my love of cactuses, and the ‘Opuntia’ varieties especially!
We can’t ignore peaches, plums, zucchini, eggplant and peppers either.
Seasonal fruit and veges are awesome!

(Mostly) Sweet Memories

I’ve now reached, as Sinatra aptly put it: “The warm September of my years.”

I may’ve mentioned I love this month? Vine and cactus harvests aside, it’s an uber-important month for both me and mine. A month of anniversaries and birthdays.
Not all of ‘em good!
On Monday the 14th September 2015 I was ambulanced to Auckland Hospital due to having a suspected heart attack.
The second possible one as it happened. I’d shrugged off the first late the week before as … not a heart attack, surely? Doofus me!
Anyways, that life-changing event out of the way now, let’s move onto better things also worth remembering.
Like the one that occurred 10 days later, but 27 years prior: Saturday the 24th September 1988. The day I got married, thirty-six years ago now. Don’t time fly when you’re having fun, huh Alice?
The very next day, the 25th September 1988, was my then-30th birthday.
My 66th this year. While certainly a time to celebrate having made it this far, even betterer: On Wednesday 25th September 2024 I get my UK pension. Surely a double celebration! I talk about making it this far because my father died at 47, and his father at 58, so I’m doing just fine.
And we simply can’t forget Saturday the 26th September 2020, can we?
That day four years ago when we boarded the 11.45am EasyJet flight from London Gatwick to Catania, Sicily. Our one-way flight, that is. Of course!
Can’t grumble!

The Greatest Gift

The greatest celebration of all began on Tuesday the 17th September 2024.

Happy memories, Windsor, UK

Why? Because that’s when our eldest son Adam arrived at Catania Airport, after flying all the way from Wellington, New Zealand, to be here with us.
A wonderful day! One made even better when our youngest son Anton arrived the very next day, coming in from New York.
What more could any parent ask for? “Nothing!” is the short (and very sweet) answer.
While this is Anton’s second visit to Modica, it’s Adam’s first, which was the icing on the cake.
Speaking of cake here? Things got even more special because Sunday the 29th September marked Adam’s birthday! So, not only are we a complete family again after many years apart, it’s also a chance to mark our first-born’s special day together once again. As we used to do many years ago now, of course!
I believe ‘fortunately’, but anyways we raised both of our sons to experience the world: To travel; to encounter; and to enjoy. The upside being men who don’t mind leaping into the almost-unknown by jumping on a plane and going to foreign parts to live and work: France, Canada, the United States, as well as the more ‘mundane’ NZ and UK…
The downside (perhaps) is that we raised ‘gypsies’, who are happy to up and move about the planet, while we’ve now settled down in this rural city in Sicily.
But such is life!
I wouldn’t want ‘em to change…

More Soon...

Lack of Promise

I don’t like talking (much) about politicians, unless they directly affect my life.

However, I will write about our Sindica (Mayor), as she does do just that, of course!

The joke is: “How can you tell when a politician is lying?” The answer: “When they open their mouth...” Old jokes aside, this is the situation we’re facing here because, sadly, our mayor f’sure falls into this category!
One ‘for instance’ here: “Creating alarmism … doesn’t belong to my way of operating, which is instead aimed at addressing problems...”
While allowing the comune-appointed Polizia Locale (Local Police) to dwindle down to ten near-retirement-age officers for a city of 55,000. Remembering they also police the local seaside resort, and the countryside around the city.
How about: “The transparent actions of our administration, through information and citizen participation, continues.”
Now that same administration did put out a single-paragraph Facebook page notice in mid-June stating there’s a ban on drinking the local water unless it’s boiled first. But that was it, and it remained unmentioned by the mayor on her own Facebook feed. Okay, the comune did also issue a notice on their official website: Four days after that first notification!
Following a beach clean-up: “My thanks as mayor ... and of our entire administration to IGM and its excellent operators.”
While not paying said ‘excellent operators’ for 14 months! You couldn’t make this stuff up.
It’d be absolutely hilarious (and kind of is!) … if it wasn’t so very frustrating!

“What Offer?”

Guess the first thing just about everyone said to us when we announced we were moving to Sicily?

Not in our neighbourhood!

If’n you guessed: “What about the mafia?” then congratulations!
One friend went as far as to state they were just about everywhere, and how would we know we wouldn’t end up living next door to a mafioso? A northern Italian friend, I point out here. A stereotypical response right there, I’m afraid.
Do the "Cosa Nostra" (their name) still exist here? Yessum.
Do they still run rackets here? F’sure!
Are they dangerous? Absolutely!
But did we find ourselves living next door to a mafia ‘family’? No, we didn’t!
And that’s because they aren’t, in fact, everywhere: As soon as you step off the plane, you won’t find yourself being made: “An offer you can’t refuse...”
Talking of airports? A regional government official recently called on Sicilian airports to remove from sale all mafia-related ‘souvenirs’. He called for a more dignified representation of the island, one free from negative stereotypes. Given airports are often the first point of contact for visitors, of course.
Now, can you find the mafia here in Ragusa province?
The answer to that is (sadly): Of course. Several ‘families’ are well-known to be operating in Vittoria, Acate and Comiso. Someway down the road, I hasten to point out!
But I’m more worried about petty crime in Modica, than being the target of a ‘hit’.
Let’s remember: Sicily is not the mafia; any more than New York is...

Seeking Balance

In between the ‘dodgy’ local politicians and the ‘nearby’ (but not neighbouring!) mafia, there’s still much to celebrate here.

And 'Yes' ... I'm a Libra...

Otherwise we wouldn’t have chosen to settle here, amongst all the other places we could’ve chosen in south-eastern Sicily.
Now doing research in the comfort of our then-home in London, as I did over four years ago now, is a wee bit different from having boots on the ground here in Modica. Were there surprises? Of course! And some, naturally, were unpleasant in nature.
For instance, I ‘knew’ that the Italian burocrazia (bureaucracy) would indeed by ‘crazy’. I just didn’t realise quite how bad it’d be, is all!
Then I’d read about the neglect and general ‘rundownedness’ of the local historic sights, but didn’t fully realise the (sometimes heartbreaking) extent until we got here.
But, as also promised by said research: The sun does shine most of the year; the cost of living is more than bearable; the legendary friendliness of the locals is just that; and the wine is immensely quaffable.
So mustn’t grumble! Although I still will, because I’m ‘officially’ a grumpy old man now...
My long-suffering wife will tell you that “swings and roundabouts” is one of my favourite quotes. And, by some miracle, we’ve somehow managed to establish our ‘kiwi4everhome’ in a place that has more swings than roundabouts, I have to say.
Something I am immensely thankful for each and every day…

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It’s Official!

It’s happening at last.

Late September, I’ll be joining that both growing and diminishing, but always exclusive, club. Y’see, on that most special of all days, I’ll be able to formally and officially call myself: “A ‘Boomer’ on a pension!”

Yup ... I’ll be turning 66 years old on the 25th September 2024.
On a Monday. Had to be, of course.
Anyways, from that day and ever onwards, until I cease to be, I’ll be getting a UK State Pension. As I’d worked for many years in the UK, I was fully entitled to one. Not a full one, naturally, as I haven’t worked there most of my life, but a pension nevertheless.
Then, back in 2019, and back in the UK, I ‘topped-up’ my pension by paying a sum for each of 10 years I hadn’t contributed. That is: Each year I wasn’t in the UK paying taxes to ‘HM Revenue and Customs’. Ten years being the maximum I could do that for.
What’s that mean in simple terms? It means my UK State Pension increased to where it could/will form much of our ‘passive’ income in the coming years. Still nowhere near a full pension, but given where I’m claiming it, it’ll f’sure help us get by here in Modica!
One of the many reasons we chose to move here: Because trying to live on a pension in either NZ or the UK doesn’t bear thinking about, I’m afraid!
I’m absolutely an “Old Fart” now!

“Tempo Passa”

“Time Passes”: My youngest, Anton, turned 30 the other day.
Which merely reinforces that I really am an “Old Fart” now! I could (and will!) state platitudes like: “Where have the years gone?” Alongside: “OMG! Now I really do feel old!” Not forgetting: “I used to change his nappies!”

But hey, it is what it is, and the years and decades pass as they will and must, of course. And it’s really no use lamenting this fact either, otherwise you may just find yourself proving the truth of that “Old Man Yells at Cloud” meme.
Why bring this up? Back when I was working in IT with a whole lot of way younger people, a few of them called me “wise”. I always corrected them. Stating I wasn’t then, and never would be, any ‘wiser’ than they were ... simply more experienced.
I mean: I’m no ‘wiser’ now at 65 than I was at my son’s age. It’s simply that I’ve been around on this earth a whole lot longer than they (and Anton) have had the privilege of being.
Down those years I’ve given many work-related presentations to those same younger IT workers. And I’d often begin by stating that I’ve been around the block so many times, I’ve named all the cracks in the footpath!
The mistakes made during those years, and more recently, prove the ‘wisdom’ of my words here, I’m afraid.
What I have here are memories to draw upon that maybe you don’t…

Liquid Asset

As I’m writing this, we’ve run out of water.
Again!
I’d reported this in last month’s post, and not much has changed. Except that the Sindica (Mayor) and Iblea Aqua (the water company) have both turned off comments on their Facebook posts updating us on the current lack-of-water situation.
And of course! Because locals aren’t too happy with either right now.

The last time we got water to fill our 3x300-litre tanks was the day before yesterday. Not so good.
What can we do about it though? Well, we do have the option of ordering in a 500 litre ‘top-up’, which we’ll likely have to do soon, if’n we get no water in the near future.
It doesn’t help that temperatures have been, and will be, above 30 celcius. And that we’ve had no rain for months now, as well!
As I stated last month though: “On balance: Life’s still sweet here…”
And that remains true. Fundamentally so! I mean: there are way worse problems we could be facing.
We don’t have famine, war, and/or civil disturbance on our streets. The sun may be way hot, but the beer’s still ice-cold. Prices may be going up, but far less than elsewhere in the EU.
The beach is still only a 25-minute drive away. And we still have petrol for the car. The supermarkets are well-stocked, and our internet’s good. The locals are still friendly, albeit a little stressed right now!
So, all in all, we can’t really grumble!

More Soon...

Different Lenses

Despite having to wear glasses since I was an early teen … I’ve never owned a pair of rose-tinted ones.

Or, if’n i once did, they were and long ago relegated to the ‘discard’ pile.

Anyways, what I do know is I discovered I was cynical by nature, very early on in my working career. A working career which began at 17, in my case.
When I say ‘cynical’, I really do mean ‘realistic’. I possessed an ability to grasp what was going on around me, rather than relying on others telling me how they believed things were going. Or wanted them to go.
What some people purported to be ‘fact’ often didn’t satisfy me. So, I most often came to my own conclusions. Was I always right? Hardly! Was I sometimes wildly wrong? Absolutely!
Why am I bringing this up?
Well, it’s because I’ve approached life here in Modica with the same sense of ‘realism’ I applied to my so-called career.
A ‘for instance’ here? We are currently experiencing a water crisis. That is, a lack of water. On top of which, what we get we must now boil before use!
Due to insufficient rain and current uber-low water levels introducing contaminants.
‘Global warming’ they say. “Yeah right!” I say!
More likely due to inefficient water management, a lack of maintenance and mishandling of leaks. A much more ‘realistic’ answer. But the ‘real reality’ is: I sort of don’t care.
On balance: Life’s still sweet here, so…

Routine

Considering everything, our lives are all about routine.
Routine gives us structure, instils discipline and (hopefully) brings peace of mind.
What I’m not saying is that our lives should become merely routine. No. More that it helps to make our lives more ‘meaningful’, if you will. I had routines in my working life, which I followed almost religiously, in order to keep what was left of my sanity!

Jokes aside: I also have routines, albeit different ones of course, in my now-retired life.
While some will talk of “dull routine”, I’d argue the many and varied health benefits far outweigh the negatives.
By introducing organisation and order, they f’sure can help to improve your health. And that’s both physical and mental.
One example that works for me anyway is going for a 2,000-step walk damn near each and every morning, no matter (usually) the weather, any lack of sleep or mild ailment. It sets me up for the day, and makes me feel good about myself.
Some of you will know that during said walks, I often post a photo captioned: “Taken on this morning’s walk...”
What you mayn’t know is I’ve taken the same route for over three years. So, I must try and find something new to photograph every single day. So a ‘routine’ has morphed into something of a ‘challenge’. A ‘win-win’ situation: Both physically (I’m exercising) and mentally (I’m racking my brain desperately trying to find something new!).
My advice to you: Find your groove…

What’s Cookin’ Then?

I like to cook.

Never used to though. Not until I met Alice, back in 1985.
This isn’t a reflection on her cooking! Far from it: She’s a good cook. Had to be with two (always) hungry sons in the house, especially as one could f’sure be labelled as a ‘fussy eater’!
There’s that, and the fact I had to work away much of the time. At least while we were living in the UK.

Anyways, I sort of fell into it. I needed something to help me cope with the stress of what was a very stressful career.
Now some may turn to gardening, pottery, or hiking? But I have no ‘green thumb’; couldn’t throw a pot to save my life (unless it’s against a wall!); and while I like walking, that’s not the same thing, now is it? But cooking did it for me. And has continued to do so, too.
I love the ‘simplicity’ of it. By that I mean the selection of ingredients; the slicing, chopping, and dicing of the same; and the actual cooking itself, of course!
While you do have to think … you don’t, if’n you get my drift? I consider it relaxing to just not think ‘bout anything else except what herb goes best with what vegetable, or which marinade to use with which meat.
It gets me ‘out of myself’, and that’s a good thing. At any time, and any age.
And yes: It is a ‘routine’ too!

More Soon...

Déjà Vu

You’ll forgive me for using a French term here, I’m sure!

I will concede though that only last month I was banging on about my ‘All Things Modica’ Facebook page. And here I am doing it again!

No, I’m not going (too) senile. It’s just that people have been harping on about why I’m not ‘monetising’ said page.
Why? Because several of the public reels I’ve created have been getting a large number of views. At time of posting, my three ‘top performers’ have received a total of over 232,000 hits between them!
So why not monetise? The answer as to why not is both simple and complex. As is life.
The simple one is: I don’t want to see adverts on my page.
It’s f’sure not one of the reasons why I created it in the first place (see last month’s post for those). Plus, as I can’t stand seeing adverts on any social media platform, why would I want them on my page?
The more ‘complex’ reason is … complex.
I took early retirement back in 2020 for one reason: After 45 years of work, I realised I’d had enough of it! And yes, I know I’ve been uber-lucky to do so...
I’ll concede my page has … almost … become something of a ‘job’ nowadays. However, that ‘almost’ is so very important to me, and it’s an argument I’ll be sticking to!
Why turn something I’m really enjoying doing into any sort of job now?

Democratic Right?

I can’t vote in Italy.
On the Ministero dell’Interno (Ministry of the Interior) website, and under the rather misleading title of “Foreign nationals can vote in municipal elections”, I discover I can’t! You must be an Italian citizen to vote in the national elections; an EU citizen to vote in the European Parliament elections; and an EU citizen resident here to vote in municipal elections.
So, there it is, and despite being a resident here. Something else we should be ‘grateful’ to Brexit for!
To tell the honest truth though, I don’t really mind that much. F’sure, it’d be nice, but “It is what it is” has been my mantra ever since we moved here. And I, for one, consider that a small price to pay to be able to do just that.

Now I’ve voted in every election, in every country I’ve been eligible to, ever since I was able to. That’s from 1976 for me, which was when I turned 18 in NZ.
Although, since then, I’ve been somewhat ‘particular’ about when I actually vote. By that I mean: If’n I’m living somewhere, am able to, then I’ll do so. However, if I’m not actually living there, but am still eligible … then I don’t!
Why ever not, I hear you ask? It’s simple really. My ‘moral compass’ won’t let me, y’see. What right do I have to decide someone else’s future … when I’m not actually there at the time?
And there you have it!

Democratic Left?

The UK General Election will be on Thursday 4th July 2024.

And, as stated above, while I won’t be voting … I will f’sure be watching it unfold. By ‘unfold’, I mean ‘implode’: As in (hopefully) witnessing the Conservative Party crash ‘n burn!
Now that choice of date is interesting, the 4th July being US “Independence Day”, of course. While not exactly that, it’ll likely see the UK at least free from the ‘shackles’ of the current administration.
Do I believe the Labour Party will do anywhere near a better job, assuming they make it into power? Who can say? Certainly not me. I mean: I’ve lived, worked, and raised a family under both and mostly centre-right and centre-left governments all my life, and in two countries too. And each has its plusses and minuses.
But assuming Labour get in this time, surely they can’t be any worse than what we’ve been seeing since 2010, with a succession of five Prime Ministers, each one seemingly wanting to outdo the others in being an absolute numpty.
Why all this vitriol on my part? Well, in one word: Brexit!
If it wasn’t for that doofus David Cameron, and then that absolute bellend Boris Johnson, we wouldn’t have had to jump so many of the bureaucratic hurdles we’ve faced since arriving here back in September 2020.
Acknowledging that Brexit did give us the ‘incentive’ to exit the UK, I still hold a massive grudge here.
I ain’t no monument to justice!

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Ghost Town?

There’s been a bit of a buzz around what’s happening (not happening) to Modica’s centri storici (historic centres).

Before continuing: Yes … we have two historic centres here. One’s where we live, Modica Bassa (the ‘low’ part of the city); while the other’s in Modica Alta (the ‘high’ part). Modica Sorda must be mentioned here, as it represents the newer part of the city.

These three names are locally given, and won’t appear on any official map.
Now Sorda is by far the biggest district: A sprawling-ugly 20th century addition, full of soulless apartment blocks. What it does have though is larger supermarkets, shopping centres, a major hospital, and somewhat better infrastructure and services.
Why the recent ‘buzz’ though?
It’s because of the work of a local citizen's action group, the “Associazione ModicAltra”, who conducted a building survey of one square kilometre of the historic centres of both Modica Bassa and Alta.

They registered a total of 5,661 homes … of which 2,174 were empty. That 38 percent being due to either outright abandonment or them simply not being lived in by their owners. I’m sure any number of non-used ‘BnB’s are included in that number. We have many of those!
It’s something those of us living here are fully aware of, of course.
Solutions? Maybe money? Possibly incentives? Perhaps the political will to do something about it? All sadly lacking, I’m afraid!
And not just here: The whole of Italy is fighting against the tide of history…

Preference

We’re now amid what I call “Procession Season” here in the religious South.
Have to say it though, and don’t get me wrong here: I like the “Madonna ‘Vasa Vasa’” (“Madonna ‘Kiss Kiss’”) parade.

'Festa di San Giorgio' 2024

That’s the one where the risen Christ is greeted by his up-to-then-mourning mother, the Madonna, in the streets of Modica Bassa. It’s attended by tens of thousands of locals and visitors/tourists alike, and is rightly renowned across Italy (and beyond) for both its spectacle and religious significance.
It’s just that, for me, it’s a little too … sterile. A little too ‘showy’, maybe a wee bit too ‘touristy’, for the likes of me. That’s just my opinion, mind: For me at least, it doesn’t really do too much, I’m afraid!
That said, let’s talk about the “Festa di San Giorgio” (“Saint George’s Day”) parade.
This occurred two days ago, and it’s f’sure something else entirely! While also spectacular, religiously significant and, yes, ‘showy’ too, there’s an absolute joy in the proceedings that’s something you must experience for yourself.
To me, it’s a much more personal celebration by its citizens of the city they live in: San Giorgio being the city’s patron saint after all. Do remember that it is essentially a ‘Modica Alta’ celebration, with all that that entails (see my post above). This is because the Duomo (Cathedral) of Saint George is in Alta, not Bassa.
One local described this parade as being “too pagan”, and I agree.
Because it does feel almost that!

My New ‘Job’

Back in September 2023, I created my "All Things Modica" Facebook page.

And I didn’t quite realise then what I was getting myself in to! I mean: It takes hours of my time each day now. Trolling through seven local news outlets; the comune (council) and local police websites; and specific Facebook groups and pages dedicated to Modica , including those covering local churches.
It’s almost turned into a ‘job’ now … as my long-suffering wife has pointed out on several occasions.
Maybe true, but if so, it’s a job I really like doing. Thankfully.
But hey, I’m not complaining. I’m more than grateful for all the ‘likes’, ‘shares’ and ‘views’ I’ve been getting over the last eight months. Keep ‘em coming, I say!
It’s just that it does make me a little sad (and somewhat frustrated) that Modica, my hometown, is just so poor at advertising themselves really.
Why should someone like me be doing this, albeit for mostly English speakers? I constantly come across events advertised only days (and sometimes even hours) before they’re due to kick off. And that’s if I’m lucky enough to find them before they’ve happened.
Now the comune do maintain a ‘Tourist Office’ here, but as one follower said recently: “You know more about what’s happening than they do!” And, self-congratulations aside, that’s not a good thing! Okay, nobody likes being bombarded with adverts, but then ‘good’ advertising is sadly lacking here.
C’mon Modica … do me out of a job!

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Easy Livin’

We’re now heading into Summer here.

And that’s with a heartfelt “About damn time!” from me, I have to say! Given I was born and raised in warm climes, I find I’m more of a ‘Summer person’. Especially nowadays, as it helps these now-aching old(er) bones.

Pozzallo Beach

As George Gershwin put it: “Summertime, and the livin’ is easy...” And it is here in Modica.
It’s easy to be happier when not only is the sun shining, but it’s also uber-warm with it. Okay, the sun does shine a lot of the time in the other seasons, but it lacks that long-and-lazy days feel that comes with true Summer.
And I’m not the only one who loves this season. No, I’m not (only) thinking ‘bout Alice: I’m talking about my cactuses here! Because they, like me, thrive in warmer temperatures, of course. I mean: It’s way easier to be upbeat about life, the universe and everything … when the sun’s high and hot in a deep azure sky.
Now, there will be nay-sayers who’ll instead quote “The Lovin' Spoonful” at me: “All around, people looking half-dead…”
And that can be true, I must admit, ‘cause it f’sure did get over 40°C several times last year. My answer to that’d be while they may be right (at times), the positives of a warm climate far outweigh the negatives.
And there are many ways to cool down and keep hydrated on such days … cold wine immediately springing to mind here!
Naturally!

100 Churches?

Modica’s been called the “Città delle 100 Chiese” (“City of 100 Churches”) which, while great marketing, isn’t that far from the truth.
For instance, it’s known that in 1600 there were at least 95 churches in Modica, because of a list prepared by a 17th century historian, backed up since by others using notarial deeds, church records, etc., which referenced them all.
So that’s that then.

Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Grazie

But this is 2024, and much has changed in the last 400 years, of course: Not least of all six minor and major earthquakes since 1169!
Now I can name (and show you photos of) at least 41 churches you can still find in both Modica Bassa and Alta, the two oldest parts of the city. Seventeen of which are deconsecrated.
Why deconsecrated? There are any number of reasons: But mostly it’d be down to attendance drastically declining, caused by depopulation alongside the resulting economic downturn. Albeit only in certain quarters of Modica. There are way more than those seventeen too: Many have been turned into private residences or workplaces, so are hard to find.
Why bring this up? Because of those that you can still find, many are in a terrible state! I mean: Roofs caved in, rubble and dust everywhere, windows covered or broken, weeds growing all about the place.
Anywhere else they’d maybe be looked after. It’s very sad, but there’s neither the money or the will to fix them up here.
Which means they just rot in peace…

‘Tis the Season

Given we’re discussing churches?
As inevitably as Spring follows Winter, ‘Stagione delle Processioni’ (‘Procession Season’) is once again upon us. That’s my handle for it anyways. You won’t find any local calling it by that (somewhat?) sacrilegious name!
That’s because, to many here, it’s something personal to them. Personal to their particular ‘quartiere’ (‘quarter’) of Modica.

Okay, there’s today’s “Madonna ‘Vasa Vasa’” and April’s “Festa di San Giorgio”. Both well known amongst Sicilians and tourists alike: They’re huge draw cards for the city. They, however, are more the exception that proves the rule.
No, I’m talking about those more local, far less well-known, religious festivals-come-processions that follow the ‘Big Two’.
Ones, in some ways, far more significant to their communities than those (albeit important) grander affairs are to the wider city. Significant because they’re venerated and celebrated on a far more personal level by their parishioners.
They do fascinate me, as I love the ‘theatre’ of them, and we’ve attended many in the years we’ve been here.
Although you can feel yourself being more ‘observer’ than ‘participant’ at times. It’s not that you’re unwelcome or anything. Far from it!
It’s just you can feel the local’s eyes upon you. Which could be ‘translated’ as: What are these ‘stranieri’ (‘foreigners’) doing here? Although it’s more likely they’re actually thinking: Why haven’t we seen these two at mass before?
Do I feel guilty about that? A little, I have to say.
Not nearly enough to stop me going though!

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Quirky Too

Last year, I wrote about some of the quirks I’ve come across living here.

It’s time to do a ‘part two’, I reckon!
Why’s that? Because I’ve always loved people-watching, a trait I happen to share with many of the locals.

I'm not yelling ... I'm Italian!

First off, there’s that habit of most people talking into their mobiles on speaker ... because they hold them horizontally in front of them. What this can mean is you’re often able to hear both sides of any conversation, of course.
None of your mundane ‘phone-to-ear’ thing here!
Then there’s that willingness to entirely block the footpath when they happen to meet friends on the street. Greetings and gossip must be exchanged there and then.
There’s no moving aside to let others pass: This isn’t the UK, y’know!
Now, a pet peeve of Alice’s is that individuals or groups will pass between tables at that cafe you’re sitting at, rather than go around. Even if there’s little room to do so.
They’re like water: Path of least resistance, and all that!
Next up, let’s cover that ‘no short conversation’ rule the majority comply with here. I mean, why use 10 words, when 100 can also convey the same message? Sicilians (and Italians in general) like a long conversation, and if’n it’s important to them, then it should be to you too!
Now this I don’t mind: I’ve never been one to shy from hearing my own voice!
However, and whatever their (many) quirks … gotta love ‘em!

Our Front Door

There are so many impressions, sensations and emotions colouring our lives on a daily basis.
These can easily, and equally perhaps, please or motivate us; or else leave us apathetic or agitated. But let’s not dwell on that last bit here! No.

What I’d like to talk about is that feeling of bliss you get when closing your front door firmly behind you on the outside world. Something I feel at least once a day, and often way more than that: We’re not hermits after all!
Why I bring this up is because it’s one sentiment I hadn’t really felt for the four years between September 2017 and August 2021. Four years when we didn’t feel settled. When we were ‘transitioning’ from an old life grown stale to a new one filled with endless possibilities.
Overly dramatic prose aside, there’s a good argument here for that period being longer than four years because, by 2017, I’d grown weary of (or maybe outgrown?) New Zealand.
It didn’t help that I’d been almost constantly questioning and reevaluating my life and career post-heart attack; that both of our sons were then overseas; and that we were rattling about in a four-bedroom, three-bathroom house in the ‘burbs. The latter being a constant reminder of the two former states, of course.
But nowadays, I once again get that nicely-blissful feeling when closing the front door behind me. The outside world can stay just where it is.
This is where I belong now.

Spring Has (Nearly) Sprung!

Spring is just around the corner here in southern Europe.

An almond tree in blossom...

I can feel it while taking my morning walk as it’s not (quite) as cold as it was last month. You can see it too, as many of the plants and trees (and weeds!) are flowering in Modica and its surrounds now. Especially those white-blossomed almond trees, which look so awesome against their still-green country backdrop.
Always a good sign, I have to reckon. And a sign that I, like so many others around here, must start getting busy preparing. Although, in my case, I’m preparing my cactus ‘babies’ for their Spring re-awakening!
So, I’ve been busy in the last few days carefully evaluating each and every plant of the (currently) 28 different types of cactuses I have in my collection. Why so? Because you have to remember the majority of ‘em were last watered on Thursday the 19th October 2023!
I know this because I keep extensive notes on all of ‘em. And ‘yes’, I’m particular and peculiar, ‘cause I wasn’t born with anything like a ‘Green Thumb’, I’m afraid.
Okay, those which remained outside have been getting rained upon from time to time, but that’s not been too common an occurrence around here for the last several months. And anyways, most of those outdoors are more mature plants, which can easily shrug off a bit of cold and damp.
It seems to have been a long time coming: I’m ready…
Bring on Spring now!

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No ‘Turtling’ Here!

Even in Sicily, Winter is upon us!

Although in Modica, while the night-time temperatures have dropped (between 2c and 7c for the next 10 days), the daily temperatures are quite good (between 13c and 17c), and it can certainly feel nicely mild, at least in the sunshine.
You’re aware I cultivate cactuses and succulents, but you may not be aware the majority aren't at all cold-tolerant, given most are from the southern USA, Mexico, and South America in some cases. Which is why my cactuses enter a state of 'dormancy' during these colder months ... while my succulents will also slow down their growth and water requirements during this period too.
They're 'turtling', as I call it.
Now I've found some people also appear to display the same behaviour? As in: They'll also 'turtle' during the colder months; staying indoors or, at the very least, limit their travels about the place to the barest minimum.
I, however (and we), refuse to do so! This is our fourth Winter here, and we simply refuse to curtail our 'outdoor activities' during this period of relative cold.
Why would we, and why should we? In many ways, it's the best time of the year to be out-and-about the place. There are few if any tourists about, which means we often have the places we visit to ourselves. Case In point: Beaches are often bereft of all but a few dog-walkers.
And, given the sunshine, why wouldn’t you want to go?

Friends Can Help...

We recently had friends come visit all the way from New Zealand.
Over 18,000 kilometres away ... and big ups for that! Alright, they did visit other places first of course, but still...
Why am I bringing this up? Well, it’s because ‘virgin visitors’ to your wee corner of the world f’sure bring out the dormant ‘tourist guide’ in you! And I, for one, delighted in playing said ‘tourist guide’ for three first-time Kiwis.

Those drystone walls...

Now, before they arrived, I’d drafted up (I always do for most anything!) a list of ‘must-see’, ‘may-see’ and ‘if’n we have time-see’ sights I reckoned they’d all be interested in. An action vindicated by the fact they at least seemed to thoroughly enjoy themselves.
We took in the local sights first, of which Modica has many I’m happy to report, before branching out into the local countryside on excursions to 4,000-year-old burial sites, Byzantine-era cave-homes, and two nearby beaches! Then it was off on a road trip to the nearby ‘big city’ of Siracusa (Syracuse), for its Greek temple, medieval castle, sacred spring and so many churches.
The road trip itself also proved ‘educational’, as we were, after all, driving through the heart of the countryside to get there. Those drystone walls in our province are awesome!
While it was Winter, the weather god (that’s Zeus or Jupiter here) blessed us with cool and sometimes even warm, non-rainy days, which we were able to take maximum advantage of.
I thoroughly enjoyed myself!

Resigned

I’d been an Admin for the 596-member “Kiwis in Italy” Facebook page since last year.
This Facebook group being for those “Kiwis intending to be in Italy or partners / family members of potential Kiwis in Italy to swap stories, tips and support each other.” A worthy cause, and a well worthy group too, of course.

However, unfortunately (fortunately?), I had to let go because my “All Things Modica” Facebook page has really taken off! I created this page back in September 2023, and posted for the first time on the 15th September. Alice (naturally) was my very first subscriber/follower but, over the next four months, this grew exponentially to its current total of 51 ‘Likes’ and 70 ‘Followers’!
Updating this page daily now takes up a lot of time y’see ... as I set myself the (albeit self-inflicted) task of trolling through each-and-every local news website; other Modican (in Italian/Sicilian) Facebook groups; and even ‘stalk’ the Polizia Locale (Local Police) and the Sindica’s (Mayor’s) pages ... all to come to grips with what’s actually going on in my home city.
Why? Well, because I saw the so-obvious need for such a page, given the singular lack of anything like such a forum, in English, covering what’s happening in la mia bella città (my beautiful city): From a ‘local interest’ and ‘what’s on’ point of view.
It’s been both a journey and a revelation, I must say.
But one that I’ve been happy to make, given my wonderful audience!

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