Easy Livin’

We’re now heading into Summer here.

And that’s with a heartfelt “About damn time!” from me, I have to say! Given I was born and raised in warm climes, I find I’m more of a ‘Summer person’. Especially nowadays, as it helps these now-aching old(er) bones.

Pozzallo Beach

As George Gershwin put it: “Summertime, and the livin’ is easy...” And it is here in Modica.
It’s easy to be happier when not only is the sun shining, but it’s also uber-warm with it. Okay, the sun does shine a lot of the time in the other seasons, but it lacks that long-and-lazy days feel that comes with true Summer.
And I’m not the only one who loves this season. No, I’m not (only) thinking ‘bout Alice: I’m talking about my cactuses here! Because they, like me, thrive in warmer temperatures, of course. I mean: It’s way easier to be upbeat about life, the universe and everything … when the sun’s high and hot in a deep azure sky.
Now, there will be nay-sayers who’ll instead quote “The Lovin' Spoonful” at me: “All around, people looking half-dead…”
And that can be true, I must admit, ‘cause it f’sure did get over 40°C several times last year. My answer to that’d be while they may be right (at times), the positives of a warm climate far outweigh the negatives.
And there are many ways to cool down and keep hydrated on such days … cold wine immediately springing to mind here!
Naturally!

100 Churches?

Modica’s been called the “Città delle 100 Chiese” (“City of 100 Churches”) which, while great marketing, isn’t that far from the truth.
For instance, it’s known that in 1600 there were at least 95 churches in Modica, because of a list prepared by a 17th century historian, backed up since by others using notarial deeds, church records, etc., which referenced them all.
So that’s that then.

Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Grazie

But this is 2024, and much has changed in the last 400 years, of course: Not least of all six minor and major earthquakes since 1169!
Now I can name (and show you photos of) at least 41 churches you can still find in both Modica Bassa and Alta, the two oldest parts of the city. Seventeen of which are deconsecrated.
Why deconsecrated? There are any number of reasons: But mostly it’d be down to attendance drastically declining, caused by depopulation alongside the resulting economic downturn. Albeit only in certain quarters of Modica. There are way more than those seventeen too: Many have been turned into private residences or workplaces, so are hard to find.
Why bring this up? Because of those that you can still find, many are in a terrible state! I mean: Roofs caved in, rubble and dust everywhere, windows covered or broken, weeds growing all about the place.
Anywhere else they’d maybe be looked after. It’s very sad, but there’s neither the money or the will to fix them up here.
Which means they just rot in peace…

‘Tis the Season

Given we’re discussing churches?
As inevitably as Spring follows Winter, ‘Stagione delle Processioni’ (‘Procession Season’) is once again upon us. That’s my handle for it anyways. You won’t find any local calling it by that (somewhat?) sacrilegious name!
That’s because, to many here, it’s something personal to them. Personal to their particular ‘quartiere’ (‘quarter’) of Modica.

Okay, there’s today’s “Madonna ‘Vasa Vasa’” and April’s “Festa di San Giorgio”. Both well known amongst Sicilians and tourists alike: They’re huge draw cards for the city. They, however, are more the exception that proves the rule.
No, I’m talking about those more local, far less well-known, religious festivals-come-processions that follow the ‘Big Two’.
Ones, in some ways, far more significant to their communities than those (albeit important) grander affairs are to the wider city. Significant because they’re venerated and celebrated on a far more personal level by their parishioners.
They do fascinate me, as I love the ‘theatre’ of them, and we’ve attended many in the years we’ve been here.
Although you can feel yourself being more ‘observer’ than ‘participant’ at times. It’s not that you’re unwelcome or anything. Far from it!
It’s just you can feel the local’s eyes upon you. Which could be ‘translated’ as: What are these ‘stranieri’ (‘foreigners’) doing here? Although it’s more likely they’re actually thinking: Why haven’t we seen these two at mass before?
Do I feel guilty about that? A little, I have to say.
Not nearly enough to stop me going though!

More Soon...