Phases

It’s widely acknowledged there are several phases of retirement you’ll likely encounter.

I know. Been there, done that ... worn out the T-shirt!

Using an It analogy here...

1. Firstly, there’s ‘Realisation’: Your retirement date’s arrived;
2. Followed by the ‘Honeymoon Period’: No need for alarms or another commute. You can chill!
3. Then comes ‘Disenchantment’: The gloss of retirement wears thin. You may become bored, directionless, and maybe even suffer depression;
4. Succeeded by ‘Reorientation’: You find out some adjustments are needed to improve happiness and fulfilment; and
5. Finally, there’s ‘Stability’: You’re fully adjusted and acclimatised to this new reality.
And then, hopefully, you’ll find both contentment and confidence.
Why do I bring this up? Okay, because I’m retired, but also because it’s exactly like settling into a new country, y’see! I’ve seen it in myself ... and seen it with many others immigrating here. Whether in person, or on the several ‘expat’ Facebook groups I belong to.
Now I’m an old cynic (blame 35 years in IT), but believe me here: The ‘Honeymoon Period’ will not last forever. You’re so excited to be here? I get it. But it’s just a phase. One us ‘old hands’ have all been through.
Then again, the ‘Disenchantment’ phase shouldn’t last your lifetime either. Things aren’t like they were back ‘home’? It was/is so much better there? Alright. I get that too.
But then life’s all about adjustments: Good and bad … retiring or simply living. With that realisation comes inner peace.
You’ll find yours...

“Google it...”

There's an anecdote, attributed to Oliver Cromwell, that reads: “Trust in God, but keep your powder dry”.
It's a good maxim ... whether you have faith or not. You wouldn't jump out of a plane without first checking you needed a parachute, would you? So why is it so many seem to rely on (seemingly) blind faith when it comes to moving somewhere new?
I am, of course, talking about moving to Sicily.
As mentioned above, I actively belong to several ‘expat’ Facebook groups, and they can be a source of uber-frustration! I'm being polite here, but the downright ... naivety ... of some people is breathtaking.

There's the (anonymous) poster who asked about whether buying an olive-producing property in Ragusa (my) province would result in “any form of extortion, through organized crime members...” Then foolishly asked for comments.
Another, obviously fresh off the plane in Palermo, stated they’d found over-flowing bins, and “faeces all over the side walk”. And, because of this, went on to say they didn't want to “give up on my Sicilian dream just yet.”
Then there's the person who bought a 16m² ‘tiny house’ from a local company for €30,000. The workmanship was awful, so were legitimately complaining. Regardless, that's €1,875m², when the island average (2023) is €1,129m².
The lack of work here seems to somehow shock people too. While Italy’s jobless rate is falling, the unemployment rate in Sicily is over double the national average.
Don’t rely on blind faith: Google it!

End on a High

Time to focus on the positive...
It’s easy to complain about Italy’s infamous bureaucracy, the unnecessary hurdles sometimes placed in your way, and the many other ‘hiccups’ we’ve experienced post-move, but I don’t dwell on those.

Don't try this at home...

I saw a post recently on an expats Facebook page that boldly stated: “La Dolce Vita doesn’t exist. It’s just some delusional dream created by some IG [Instagram] content creator.” Albeit Fellini couldn’t possibly have posted about it in 1960.
Regardless, my reply was: “You just gotta look harder yeah…” Because it’s true, sorry. Not sorry.
Y’see, it takes work and dedication to be able to score your own personal “Sweet Life”. But it’s f’sure obtainable! And that’s no matter where you are on this planet. It’s always the little things, the more positive things, that stand out to me the most here in Modica.
Things like the naked beauty everywhere: The history, the Mediterranean, the wild flowers.
The church bells ringing from 8am to 8pm every day.
The patience of the locals with both me, and my (frankly) doubtful Italian!
The curiosity many have about us, and (most often) why we’re here. And their delight when we say we’re permanent.
The kindness and friendliness of the many people who’ve helped us along the way. Several of whom we now consider friends.
That feeling of safety when walking about, no matter the hour.
The creativity of the locals when it comes to overcoming obstacles.
What’s not to love?
Life’s sweet!

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Nonsensical?

There’s some weird stuff here!

Things that took some getting used to. At least, for us stranieri (foreigners).
Take shop sales.

'Saldi' ('Sales')

Unlike many other countries, here you’re allowed only two sales periods a year: One in winter; the other in summer; and between government-set dates! I mean: In NZ or the UK, if’n you wanted to celebrate your cat’s birthday with a sale? Fill your boots!
Not here though. These dates can vary from region to region, too. The 2023 summer sales period for Sicily runs between the 6th July and the 15th September, while in Lombardy (Milan), it’s 6th July and 30th August.
Go figure!
Then there’s the fact that, although we live in a city of 53,000, there are no traffic lights here.
Not one! Which makes us about a century behind the rest of the world. Now, it’s widely acknowledged Italy has far fewer traffic lights than roundabouts. And, to be fair, in Modica we do have a lot of the latter!
I have to say though, I don’t think it’d make an ounce of difference to the locals’ bad driving habits … so maybe why bother?
Writing of traffic?
I’ve noticed many drivers don’t bother with seatbelts. Which maybe is their concern, right? This, however, also extends to their kids not being strapped in! Don’t know how many we’ve seen bouncing up and down on mum’s lap … or standing on the back seat.
Given their love of children here … this is entirely nonsensical!

Quirks?

From the nonsensical ... to the quirky.
One, albeit welcome, oddity here is that you don’t have to pay for that coffee or aperitivo, at a cafe or bar, until you’re ready to leave. No matter how many you may subsequently order. Or, indeed, how long you choose to sit there!
For me anyways, when you’re so used to being asked to pay up-front for each beverage (or donut!) when you order it, this is such a refreshing change!

Then there’s the way Italians will say “Pronto?” (lit. “Ready?”), when answering the phone. Straight off, I noticed Alice naturally started doing this here. This, apparently, is to let the person on the other end of the phone know that you are, in fact, ready to talk to them.
And then, instead of saying “May I come in?”, as you maybe would in English when entering someone’s home, you say “Permesso?” (lit. “Permit?” or “Permission?”). Of course, they’re asking for permission to come in.
Then again, neither pronto nor permesso are actually meant literally, it’s more good form and common courtesy here.
On the border between nonsensical and (un)charming quirky Italian habit, f’sure there’s timekeeping!
A ‘for instance’ here? The other day we made an appointment with the local bank, and the guy we had the appointment with said 10am … then added the caveat “That’s 10 … Sicilian time, okay?” Meaning he’d be ready to see us at 10am … or maybe 10:05 … perhaps even 10:20.
Anything’s possible!

Rules?

There are f’sure some hard-and-fast ‘food rules’ not to be broken here.
Like never break spaghetti! That’s a ‘never ever’, alright? If’n you snap your spaghetti before putting it into the pot, you might just hear some nonna (grandmother) tsk-tsking away in the distance.
I kid you not! And don’t use a fork and spoon when eating said spaghetti: Only a fork is acceptable for pastas that ‘twirl’, okay?
And let’s not get started on the ‘pineapple-on-pizza’ crime against humanity...
Yes: Italians have a lot of rules when it comes to food!

'Filet-O-(maybe)Fish' with cheese? Nope!

Including not putting cheese (Parmesan or otherwise) on any fish-based pasta or risotto dish. Here the thinking is the cheese flavour would overwhelm the delicate taste of the seafood. However, many pizzerias will offer seafood-and-cheese pizzas, which don’t seem to raise eyebrows!
Then, don’t ask for a ‘salad dressing’ for your insalata (salad) either. You can forget about that “Italian dressing” so popular elsewhere, here you may dress your salad with olive oil and vinegar. Maybe substituting the latter with lemon juice or balsamic vinegar.
The practice of walking and eating, fairly commonplace elsewhere, is frowned upon in Italy. Food should be enjoyed slowly, with sit-down, sociable meals. Even street food should only be eaten standing up if there's no convenient seat.
Of course, there’s one notably delicious exception: Gelato. Now that you’re allowed to enjoy while strolling about the place!
The above rules are the tip of a very big iceberg.
Buon appetito! Enjoy your meal!

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The ‘When’

I can name the day when my attitude started changing.

Beginning to flip-flop from: “Everything’s fine...” to: “Y’know what? Life’s too short...”
It was Monday the 14th September 2015 when it started. A sunny day as I recall, only a week and a half before my 57th birthday.

Me in Auckland Hospital

It was also the day I was admitted to Auckland Hospital after two episodes. As in: Heart attacks. Albeit ‘minor’ ones.
At first, I was all: “It’s just a warning...” And I was back at work the next Monday morning. As I pointed out in my “About Me” bio for this blog, in doing so, I’d ignored my doctor’s, my wife’s, and even my sons’ advice. What a plonker yeah?
But, like any other insidious thought that gnaws away at your conscious mind, it began to dawn on me. Slowly at first, then with increasing clarity and urgency: What the hell was I doing here? With my so-called career? In this country? More importantly perhaps: With my life?
With such cheery questions firmly in mind now, I proceeded to lose it over the next year. Along with our kids, who’d both decided to leave the country for pastures new. Not because of me, I must hasten to add!
No … I’m talking about the will to work here. I wanted ‘out’: Out of the rat-race; out of my 32-year career; and out of New Zealand. I’d had enough. Life, I’d decided, was for living.
And I’m so doing that now!

Keep Busy

They say nostalgia is wasted on the young.
And it’s true! I mean: Why be nostalgic when you’ve way more future than history? You should be looking forward ... not back.
Looking back is something reserved for someone … say … my age! Now I have way more history than future to look forward to.
And I don’t mind that. ‘Cause that’s just the way life is, of course. Plus, I’m not quite ready yet to “rage against the dying of the light...”
So, now that I’m retired and got (apparently!) way more time on my hands than I’ve ever had, I can now ‘indulge myself’ and wallow in said nostalgia. Which I’ve taken to mean: Get on with those things you’ve been promising yourself (and others) you’d do.

Our sons ... in Kos, Greece

And for me that means scanning in all those old family photos so we have digital copies; getting on with my family tree; and (trying to) learn Italian.
The ‘family photos’ thing has been enjoyable and frustrating in about equal measure. Some are 60-plus years old, and haven’t aged well, given the old tech used to take ‘em!
My family tree has been full of revelations. Many not so good. For every war hero and heroic mum who raised a dozen children … there’s two drunks and loadsa kids born out of wedlock.
As for my Italian? I’m lazy, so the less said about that the better, I’m afraid!
The most important thing is to keep busy though, right?

Legacy Systems

One other thing that comes to mind, now I’m getting old(er) is ‘legacy’.
By that I mean: The lasting impact on others of events, actions, and so on, that’ve taken place in my life. Yup! I’m in that particular phase right now, and have been since my (early) retirement.

Such sweet memories...

Although, given my over three-decade stint in IT, perhaps the definition for ‘legacy IT systems’ would be a better analogy? As in: “A legacy system is any outdated computing system, hardware or software that is still in use.” With the caveat that: “Most legacy systems still function even if they’re outdated...”
Which is somewhat encouraging!
But analogies aside, legacy is something that does concern me. And many others of a similar age, I’m very sure. What are we leaving behind us, when we’ve gone? Oh, I’m not at all being maudlin about it, it’s just a fact of life.
Alice and I can count ourselves very lucky because we have that greatest of all legacies, of course: Our children. But what of the more mundane things? What footprint will I leave behind?
Well, this blog for one! Which is one of the reasons I started it in the first place. Then there’s the family tree I’ve already mentioned … along with scanning in all those family pics.
Of course, while these things are all important, as already stated, what’s even more so is the impact you’ve had on others’ lives down the years.
And hopefully still have even today.

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Licensing

Six months ago, Alice embarked on an arduous and frustrating journey.

A ‘campaign’ to obtain her Italian patente di guida (driver’s license). And I have nothing but admiration for both her tenacity and downright stubbornness!
So why does she have to do it?
Well, British residents in Italy with UK-issued driver’s licenses can still drive legally here until the end of 2023. Now, as we both have UK licenses, we’re likewise covered until the end of this year, just like them. Which is good news for us, of course!

She's aced it...!

However, the ‘extra’ good news for them is they can straight swap their licenses for Italian ones. They have until the end of 2023 to do so. The bad news for us though is that this exchange doesn’t apply to us!
Why?
Because we’d originally straight-swapped our NZ licenses for UK ones when we’d first arrived there many years ago, and the Italian authorities state that as our licenses were initially NZ ones … this ruling doesn’t apply to us! Or anyone in a similar situation to ours, for that matter: So any non-EU citizens who managed to do the same thing back in the day? They too must go through this process!
Why only Alice, you may ask? The theory test (which she just aced!) is in very ‘tricksy’ old-fashioned and obscure Italian … and my wife’s language skills are so very much better than mine, do y’see?
She did it though, and I’m so very proud of her!

Cost of Living

The cost of living is rising everywhere...
And we’re not immune to that in Sicily: We’ve noticed it during our weekly shop, and at the cafes and restaurants we frequent.
However, I do have to say it’s less noticeable here than in many other places. Including northern Italy, according to my research.

Breakfast of champions...!

You can, for instance, still get a caffè latte, a caffè americano and a ciambella (doughnut) as big as your palm for less than €5.00 if you ‘shop around’. As in: Stay away from the tourist areas.
Now, naturally, I’ve been here long enough now to know said places! Having said that, the above selection will set you back only around €6.50 even in the historical centre, which is still not bad at all considering.
As for shopping, while a kilo of, say, tomatoes will set you back up to €3.00 at a supermercato, dried pasta is still as cheap as chips.
And again, if’n you shop around, you’ll find bargains at a local fruttivendolo (fruit shop). Our favourite, for example, regularly has (‘okay’) tomatoes on offer at €1.00 a kilo! With the same price for melanzane (eggplants), oranges, mandarins, etc., all dependant on the season.
Now we’re incredibly lucky in Modica, given we’re in the centre of a prime agricultural area, so the transport cost from field-to-table is low, and they grow about everything you need locally, so we’re very spoiled!
So, while it is getting more expensive … I reckon it’s entirely ‘bearable’.

Housing

So, what’s the local housing market like?

Well, the average price for a property in Modica bassa (the lower historic centre) where we live, is only €871 per square metre. However, as with all ‘averages’, the prices and conditions vary widely, of course!

'Spot the Difference': €2.7 million and €4,700...

The most expensive property being this 2,000 m², 31-roomed farm house for €2.7 million. Which comes with about 17 hectares planted with citrus fruit, olive trees and vines. Which, okay, works out to a modest €1,350 m².
However, it isn’t even here ... it’s out in the countryside ... but then that’s the local real estate agencies for you! In fact, if’n you click on the map of its location, it only shows the agent’s office, which alright is in Modica bassa! Ha!

At the extreme other end of the scale, the cheapest right now is a €4,700, 24 m², ‘Detached House’! It’s actually here, and translates to only €196 per square metre. Not that you’d want to live there, especially as the agency describes it as: “Da ristrutturare” (“To be restructured”)!

So, what did we pay for our ‘kiwi4ever’ home back in 2021?
Well, it cost us €787 per square metre: ‘Un-restructured’. We, however, were very lucky, given it was an ex-B&B so liveable from the off, and we ‘only’ had to replace the doors and windows, fit a new kitchen, and furnish it to our taste.
All of which pushed the overall price up to €1,084 per square metre.
Which is very good, considering.

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Where’s Spring?

Mother Nature, you had one job!

This ‘Spring’, thus far, has been … somewhat … problematic, I’m afraid. As in: Where the Hell is it?
Unlike previous ones, this year’s been topsy-turvy weather-wise.
I write this because it’s 06:44, and only 9 degrees, with a high (low) of 19 predicted from 11am. At least it’ll be sunny all day. That, and the humidity’s dropping at last: Although it’s 75 percent right now, it drops to less than 50 percent during the day. So that’s something!

At least there's the wild flowers!

The flora and fauna are about as confused as I am too.
For instance, the swifts, those speedy and most acrobatic of birds, have arrived back from their over-wintering in sub-Saharan Africa, to their Modican birthplaces to breed and nest. They f’sure must be a bit shocked at how the weather’s turning out: Temperatures up; then down; and way more rain than usual.
Weird!
By the way, while I do love to see ‘em return, I don’t love the fact they poo on our terrace!
Then we had almond trees blossoming way back in the first week of February which, I foolishly thought, meant Spring would be arriving early this year. How wrong was I then?
Have to say though, the wild flowers don’t seem to give a toss, as they’re in full and glorious bloom right now. Which makes any walk and/or drive a real pleasure.
The long-range weather forecast talks of more rain, with warmer weather only arriving in mid-May.
Sigh!

Uplifting Experiences

As inevitably as those wild flowers appearing in Spring, ‘stagione delle processioni’ (‘procession season’) is upon us once again.
As in: Religious processions. I’ve said it before, it’s worth restating here that this is f’sure a thing here in this most Catholic corner of Italy. Of course, such festivals aren’t just celebrated in Sicily, but throughout the country. It’s just that on the island they have actual meaning for a sizable portion of the population.
On the understanding that they’re also a great drawcard for tourists: Both domestic and foreign.
As we witnessed for the two, arguably most famous, ones that kicked off this month.

The first (and more ‘touristy’) being the “Madonna Vasa Vasa” (“Madonna Kiss Kiss”) held on Easter Sunday. When the simulacrums of ‘The Madonna’ and ‘The Risen Christ’ are carried separately up and down the main streets here in the lower city, before meeting up, when the Madonna kisses her risen son.
It’s a very joyful occasion, and the mood is both light and festive.
Next up, it’s “La Festa di San Giorgio”, which happens on the Sunday following the 23rd of April, St. George’s Day. As San Giorgio is Modica’s patron saint, as you can imagine, this is an important one! The saint’s equestrian simulacrum, complete with dragon, is carried all about the old city: From valley bottom to the very highest point, taking eight hours plus!
While we love both festivals, it’s San Giorgio’s that makes the greatest impression.
An absolute joy!

Integration

Talking of ‘procession season’, I have a pet peeve here!
As an immigrant (I don’t like using the term ‘expat’), I’m both happy and thankful we’ve found our ‘4everhome’ here in Modica.
With this in mind, we’ve actively sought every opportunity to integrate ourselves into our now-community. Our Modican community that is. I mean: Why bother even being here otherwise?
We’ve sought to make local friends and acquaintances; and cultivated useful links into both the regional bureaucracy and business community. For a start, that’s the way things work around here. Because it’s f’sure who you know, rather than what, and I for one don’t mind that, especially as if’n you’re ‘in with the locals’, it makes things so very much easier.

Why make it more difficult for yourself?
I mentioned processions?
If you’ve chosen to live here, at least try to make an effort to attend them! But … you’re not religious?
If you think that’s a good enough reason to simply not bother, then you’re missing the entire point of being here, I’m afraid. These are occasions that bring locals together in celebration of their community: Demonstrating pride in themselves; their history; and their place in the world.
Remember that although a higher percentage of Sicilians regularly attend church than elsewhere in Italy, that percentage is still way less than half. Which means the majority of those attending these processions aren’t amongst that core faithful.
In short: Get off your arse, out of your comfort zone, and integrate!

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Let’s Revisit

My first “kiwi4everhome” blog post was uploaded on the 26th of March 2020: Three years ago today!
Subsequently, on the 26th of September 2020, we boarded our Gatwick to Catania flight: Six months to the day after I began this blog!
So…

In my first ever blog entry, I wrote of €1 houses for sale in Italy?

Mostly found in the South, with the majority right here in Sicily.

Remember this?

I first started noticing them when articles began popping up on mainstream press sites, after we’d settled back in the UK in 2017. Although this phenomenon had actually started way back in 2014, in Gangi (population around 6,500), located 80km southeast of Palermo.
So, after actively thinking about buying one, why didn’t we?
The answer is mundane: Even the most cursory research told me these ‘pre-loved’ properties were for sale in photogenic but emptying, semi-abandoned villages in the rural heartland. Now that I ‘know’ Sicily, it’s not as romantic as it sounds, trust me!
The nearest big supermarket is a long-ish drive away; the medical facilities are rudimentary; the local infrastructure is crumbling; and you’re surrounded by equally-decaying houses.
More research revealed a majority of those buying in such places appeared to be at least middle aged, and looking to either retire or semi-retire … or in search of cheap holiday homes.
There are other catches, and of course! Most comuni (councils) would want you to establish a commercial enterprise (shop, B&B, etc.). So, if you’re simply looking for a second home, you could well be waiting for a while.
Then there’s the real costs: Notary fees, taxes, registration charges, etc. And not forgetting renovations could easily cost you €100,000 to €150,000!
Over the years, my opinion of them hasn’t changed.

My Initial Research

Now, problems notwithstanding with them, my interest had been (at least) piqued by those €1 houses.
As I’d written at the time, if’n you have any sort of interest in Italy, then surely this must be the case?
First things first though, I was then, and am still now ... somewhat ... annaly retentive. When any sort of a decision needs to be made: I’d always fire up a Word document and/or Excel spreadsheet. In my defence, this is the result of over 30 years in IT.
Sorry. Not sorry!

€1 house in Mussomeli

Anyways, once I’d firmly established to my satisfaction that these €1 properties weren’t any sort of scam, I began looking for ‘catches’. Because there had to be some. Once again, the result of decades of employment in big business!
It didn’t take me any time at all to find some. Although, at that time, these seemed entirely reasonable to me. Let’s put this down to ‘youthful exuberance’ okay? As I was only 61!
My research told me these properties were in that state estate agents used to call “a handyman’s dream”, “doer-upper” or “needs some TLC...” That’s because they’d been abandoned. Sometimes for generations.
Undeterred though, I’d mentioned my interest to Alice. Who, to my surprise, hadn’t dismissed the idea out of hand. Unsure of whether she wasn’t paying attention, or whether she was genuinely interested, with this outright and assumed permission, I’d charged ahead with even more detailed research.
There’s no fool like an old fool!

More Research

Given my penchant for creating files, I’d put together one imaginatively named ‘Living in Italy’.
And yes: Although renamed, I still have it! Anyways, into this, I’d downloaded all sorts of documents relating to €1 homes.
Although in Sicily only. An important decision this! I mean: I ‘knew’ the Veneto, having lived there for several months many years before, and most of Alice’s family still live there. But, even at my most optimistic, I knew it’d be too expensive to (early) retire there.
So, it had to be Sicily.

Y’see, we’d visited back in 2001. In fact, it’d been our last family holiday prior to moving back to NZ from the UK. Additionally, It was the only place in southern Italy we’d been, and we’d loved the climate, people, and the cannoli, of course!
Now armed with more detailed research, I’d delivered my now more detailed dissertation to my wife. Outlining what I saw as the pros and hurdles; folding in our current financial situation; and even mentioning that still-dreaded ‘B-word’: Brexit!
This time, however, my efforts were met with a more … muted … response.
Undeterred though, I’d resolved to change direction. And redouble my efforts! Especially given I’d noted how some who’d visited Sicily to buy a €1 home, had ended up buying locally. Only not the €1 ones. Instead choosing to buy still uber-cheap homes in rather better states of repair.
And six months later, in September 2020, we’d landed in Catania.
I’ve no regrets!

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Salute!

I made a vow when we first arrived here in September 2020.

And thus far I’ve managed to keep it, I’m proud to say! No deviation. I’ve been all unswerving in my loyalty. Unswayed by others’ opinions.

Cheers...!

And that self-imposed vow? To drink rossi vini (red wines) only and always siciliani (Sicilian).
Okay ... at home. What happens when we visit other people’s homes? Well, in my defence here, I have no (self-)control over that, now do I?
To date, I’ve managed to (heroically) taste 28 distinct local rosso varieties or blends, from 93 different producers. And, if we’re counting different vintages (‘years’) from said producers, well that total would be 124. Concerning the latter, for example, I’ve had three vintages (2018, 2020 and 2021) of Nicosia’s lovely ‘Pinot Nero’.
Now the excellent grape-growing climate here on the island results in the fruit having high sugar levels. What does that mean? Simply put, it means a higher alcoholic content!
Some examples here would be Judeka’s excellent 2020 ‘Cerasuolo di Vittoria’, which was 14%, as was Cusumano’s ‘Nero d’Avola’ from both the 2020 and 2021 vintages. Meanwhile, at the other end of the scale, we can find Cantina Paolini’s wonderful 2020 and 2021 ‘Frappato’ rated at a ‘mere’ 12%, as was Cantina Settesoli’s vegan (yup!) ‘Nerello Mascalese’ from 2019.
And 12% is the lowest I’ve had here!
As I put it last month: The local wines both tickle the palate, and pack a punch. So many wines.
So little time!

Specialities

Last time I mentioned the food here is to die for?
Modica, despite being this small rural city, is known for its characteristic foods.

Nom nom Mpanatigghi...

Take ‘Mpanatigghi’ for instance, a crescent-shaped biscuit traditionally filled with almonds, walnuts, Modican chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, cloves … and ground beef. You read right!

They were likely first created by local pastry cooks during the 16th century Spanish domination of Sicily. Given its name is almost unpronounceable to non-locals, visitors often order them by pointing a finger at them. Like I first did!
Talking of chocolate? We’re also famous for ‘Cioccolato di Modica’.
Another Spanish introduction which tastes nothing like normal chocolate. First the toasted cocoa seeds are (traditionally) hand-ground and cold-processed; the resulting bitter paste then having non-melted sugar added.
Resulting in a ‘crunchy’ texture, with both a sweet and bitter taste. Flavourings can include anything from salt or ginger; to pistachios, citrus fruit, or almonds; or cinnamon, vanilla, or chili pepper. It’s an acquired taste!
Then there’s ‘Scaccia’. Originally a 17th century peasant dish, today it’s ‘native’ to Ragusa and Syracuse provinces, and very popular in Modica.
This baked savoury dish could be described as a cross between lasagne and calzone pizza, or perhaps stuffed flatbread?
Whatever, it’s a thin rectangular layer of dough, filled with ingredients, then folded on itself several times. Its common fillings include various combinations of ricotta, onion, cheese, tomato, or eggplant. But can include potatoes, sausage (my favourite!), broccoli, etc.
And it can be eaten hot or cold.

Security

How can you enjoy the wonderful local food, and that superb island vintage, if’n you don’t feel safe doing it?
So, let’s talk about the state of policing here: A confusing subject, given the bewildering array of law enforcement agencies!
Now the ‘Carabinieri’ are part of the armed forces, so come under the authority of the Ministry of Defence. Housed in barracks, they have a variety of purely military duties.
However, when it comes to internal public order and security, they work with the Ministry of the Interior, thus also acting as a regular police force, responsible for protecting public order and detecting crime.

Lamborghini used for rushed organ transplants

Meanwhile, the ‘Polizia di Stato’ (‘Polizia’) are the main civil police force, run from the Department of Public Security.
Their responsibilities include general investigative and law enforcement duties. They’re also responsible for the security of motorway, rail, and waterway networks.
Unsurprisingly, given the vagueness of their assigned duties, there’s significant overlap between these two agencies!
The ‘Guardia di Finanza’ (‘Financial Police’) are a little different.
They report to the Ministry of Economy and Finance. Also a militarised police force, they’re responsible for dealing with financial crime, smuggling, border policing, and airport customs duties. They’re the primary anti-drug agency.
Last, and certainly least, we come to the 'Polizia Locale' ('Local Police'). These comune-based police forces are responsible for traffic control, licensing, enforcing city bylaws, and local crime prevention and policing.
Here, it’s the 'Polizia Locale Modica'. Who knows what they do all day?
I f’sure don’t!

More Soon...

A List

18 months ago, we picked up the keys to our ‘kiwi4everhome’.

Given this milestone in our new lives, I thought I’d mix it up a little this month!
And, as I’ve always had a soft spot for the film, I thought I’d base this month’s blog on Sergio Leone’s 1966 classic "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly".
Alphabetical, but in no other particular order, here goes:

The Good...

1. Bureaucracy: Why? Because once ‘in the system’ ... you’re ‘in’, and doors start opening! Healthcare, ID, bank accounts, etc., all become way easier to navigate.
2. Crime: Uber-low in Modica. Here fruit shops and supermarkets have their fruit and vege delivered on the street hours before opening, and café owners confidently leave their chairs and tables out.
3. Drink: What can I say? The local vini (wines) both tickle the palate, and pack a punch. So many wines … so little time!

Polpo (Octopus) to die for!

4. Food: Fresh and absolutely to die for. From field to table in hours as we’re living in an agricultural paradise here.
5. Healthcare: The Italian healthcare system may be somewhat ‘creaky’ here in Sicily, but you can pop in to see your GP with no appointment, and prescriptions are cheap.
6. History: F’sure a big plus. We’re both history buffs, and it’s living and breathing all around you here: From the Neolithic to the Baroque.
7. People: A huge plus! We’ve made many friends here, and most locals accept us. Especially once they learn we’re living here.
8. Traditions: Breakfasts of coffee or granita and something sweet? Yes please! And I must admit to loving the afternoon nap. Sorry. Not sorry.
9. Weather: We have blue skies more often than not, even in Winter. And the Summer’s here seem almost endless.
10. Working City: One big reason for being here. Modica isn’t overly reliant on tourists, services a large area, and it’s always bustling.

The Bad...

1. Accents: We’ve found that some people (albeit a minority) increase their prices when we open our mouths. Like those at the local Sunday market, and it can be frustrating.
2. Bureaucracy: In both ‘good’ and ‘bad’ as there’s no getting away from it! Because, with the constant change of governments here, nothing changes and old practises grind on.
3. Cash: Despite successive governments pushing the use of cards, cash is still pretty much king here, so you always have to carry some.

About as useful as you'd expect!

4. Driving: ‘Drive to be first’ is so a mantra here, alongside following too close and motoring too fast. No wonder so many cars sport dings and dents here.
5. Language: This one’s on me. With a wife who speaks fluent Italian, I’ve been way lazy about learning the language, I’m afraid.
6. Noise: With rubbish collectors loudly emptying bins at 5am; workmen starting up at 7am, and scooters roaring about the place, it can get way noisy!
7. Real Estate Agents: A pet peeve of ours. To say they’re useless is doing the useless a disservice! Thankfully in the past now.
8. Secondhand: Except for the monthly Sunday market, there’s no such thing as ‘secondhand’ here, which can be somewhat frustrating.
9. Television: It’s shite, and no mistake! Which means you must sign up for a streaming service or be driven mad!
10. Water: The comune only provides water for around four hours a day, so water conservation has to be a thing here.

...and the Ugly

1. ‘Balcony Dogs’: A very sad problem here. Some owners (literally) leave their dogs, chained up or not, on their balconies or terraces, and they can end up living their entire lives there! And we know many of these poor animals are often not even exercised!

Just left...

2. Abandoned Houses: A recent survey (May 2022) stated that of 5,661 buildings in Modica’s historic centre, a total of 2,174 were empty. Sadly, that’s nearly 40 percent! You see them everywhere here. From older homes to newer apartments, often in a state of disrepair and many entirely neglected.
3. Dog Poop: Another doggy problem here, and it’s everywhere, I’m afraid! Especially off the main streets, but even there. I have to reckon I’ve seen maybe a dozen dog owners picking up after their animals here, and only if they see someone’s watching them. It’s like walking in a minefield.
4. Stray Cats: You’ll find them all over the city. We have several resident in our street. And many are in a terrible condition, missing tails, legs, an eye, with a majority sporting ringworm or worse. They’re not even good ‘mousers’, given the locals insist on feeding them.
5. Upkeep: Given the historical nature of many of the churches, palaces and other edifices here, it’s so sad to see some (not all!) in such a poor state of repair. A majority though do sport weeds, bushes and even entire trees sprouting from their guttering and drainpipes.

To end here, I will say that the ‘good’ I’ve found in Modica far and away outweighs the ‘bad’ and even ‘the ugly’.

But then, life is what you make of it, of course!

More Soon...

Christmas in Modica

One thing I do admire about Modica is the absence of ‘Christmas bling’ on display here.

You see it in the lack of ostentatious, over-the-top, uber-commercial shop window displays. Okay, there are Christmas decorations in shop windows: A few baubles, some tinsel, coloured lights, sometimes Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) dolls, and maybe a twee Christmas message or two.
The latter most often written in English, for some unfathomable reason!

Main street decorations

Anyways, it’s f’sure not like the window and store frontage displays to be seen elsewhere. With said ‘Christmas bling’ most often starting months before the big day, and purely for commercial reasons, of course.
There are, in fact, even fewer flashing lights in the windows than last year, given the price of electricity here.
I believe the reason is that while shop owners naturally want (and need) to make money during this period, Sicilians are even more traditional than other Italians, and there are (as discussed earlier) far more church goers here than elsewhere.
The Christmas season only ‘formally’ starts on the 8th of December, with Italians celebrating l’Immacolata, the day of the Immaculate Conception. This being a catholic festival that celebrates the conception of the Virgin Mary as free from original sin, and it’s a national holiday here.
And it’s only then that most window displays go up. That is: A mere 17 days prior to Christmas Day! For me, that’s one more reason we made the right move back in 2020.
Not that I need more!

Stormy Weather ... Not!

It’s worth noting that December in Modica is not at all like those we enjoyed and/or endured back in London.
F’sure there’s something to be said for cold ‘n crispy days, central heating or open fires, and warm pubs. And I did enjoy all of them, it must be said. Except for the rain, sleet, and hard frosts ... but who enjoys those?
But when you go out for a walk here in a warm jacket and beanie, and end up having to pocket the hat and carry the damn coat because it’s just too warm?
Yes please, of course!

Mid-December beach...

As an example, we visited a local beach mid-December (it was officially 22 celsius at the time), and saw several people sunbathing, and even a few swimming. And then, on Boxing Day (‘il Giorno di Santo Stefano’ or ‘Saint Stephen’s Day’ here), it was 21 celsius with not a cloud to be seen.
Talking of the sky, it’s been chrome blue and pure most days this month. By ‘pure’ I mean the colour is pretty much the same from directly overhead to distant horizon.
A sign I’ve always taken to mean a lack of pollution, and something I often saw back in NZ, not so much in the UK, and was so happy to note it here in our new home. Weather like this improves not only your general wellbeing, but also your mental health.
Okay, it’ll get way colder in January … but still, yeah?

Buon Compleanno

It was Alice’s birthday, so we went away for the night.
Marzamemi is on the Ionian Sea coast, less than an hour’s drive away, and it was an enjoyable break, I have to say.
However, I came away thinking the hamlet (it has less than 400 permanent residents) was really a microcosm of Sicily’s tourism industry. What do I mean by that?

The cliched view

Well, it’s got a lot of history, and of course. In this case dating back to at least the 17th century, and maybe even further. And, despite its ‘touristy’ trappings, it’s still very much a working fishing port. I was lucky enough to watch several boats leave before dawn.
The seafront’s pleasant too. In addition to the fishing port, there’s also a yacht harbour, and sandy bathing beaches. It also has most of the services you’d need to live there: A pharmacy, some general stores, and other shops. And there are larger towns close by.
So that’s all to the good then!
What’s on the other side of the coin?
Now, despite it being off-season, there were several bars open, which you could argue was good. But the drink prices easily matched those we experienced in Syracuse over this last Summer.
As for the restaurants? While the portions were tasty, they were tiny, and the prices ultra-high. Then so many of the (obviously holiday) homes and apartments were empty and unloved.
While Modica is f’sure somewhat ‘touristy’ it has at least managed to keep its soul…

More Soon...

Gettin’ There

Given my medical history, I set a 2021 ‘steps’ goal.

Which I achieved, largely thanks to the fact we didn’t have a car then. I (naturally) upped the ante this year, and was (somewhat) on track to reach said goal. However, this last couple of months have seen this target slipping.
Laziness or circumstance you may ask?
I’m claiming ‘circumstance’! And it’s down to my poor wife. Not Alice’s fault: Rather blame our NZ drivers’ licences.

Got the car at least!

Y’see, when we moved back to the UK, we (again) swapped our NZ licences for local ones. Something we could do, as both countries have a reciprocal agreement in place allowing this. So, armed with those, we happily tootled about the place.
However, when we arrived here, we couldn’t ‘re-swap’ our UK ones for Italian ones.
Something any ‘true Brit’ could, prior to that December Brexit deadline, because ours were seen by the Italian authorities as simply ‘re-skinned’ NZ ones! And NZ and Italy have yet to sign any reciprocal agreement.
Thus, poor Alice must study for, and sit, the Italian licence. Leaving little time for much else.
It must be her because my Italian is years away from being good enough, mainly ‘cause the language used in the theory test is ‘tricksy’! They’re trying to trip people up by using old and/or unusual expressions in the questions, so it’s damned hard to figure out whether it’s “vero o falso”.
While struggling, Alice will do it.
I have absolute faith in her!

Honestly

There’s an underlying sense of ‘honesty’ here.

Pre-opening

You see it in the way that that day’s fruit and vege is left sitting (often unwrapped) outside that yet-to-open fruit shop or supermarket. And no one helps themselves!
That’s astounding to me. Now I ain’t sayin’ that the citizens of those countries I’ve lived in prior were dishonest, it’s just I couldn’t imagine it being done there.
Then there are the cafe owners.
Many of whom seem entirely happy to leave tables and chairs out overnight. Or even when they’re closing for some time. Seemingly oblivious to the fact someone could (quite easily) walk off with said pieces of furniture!
It’s also on show in more ... subtle ... ways.
Like at beaches, where no damns are given about what you look like in that bikini or those budgie smugglers.
And then, when your life comes to its inevitable end, death is accepted openly and honestly, being seen as a part of a life lived. Hence the funeral posters and mourning notices plastered all about the place.
Now f’sure there are ‘rip-off artists’: Witness that fruit shop where they weighed up the six bananas we bought, before sneakily snapping one off without us noticing, and bagging it up! Needless to say, we’ve never been back since. Of course.
Then there are those Sunday Market traders who, as soon as they hear our ‘touristy’ accents, bump up the prices on all their items!
Exceptions that prove the rule, I’m happy to say!

Acqua

It’s said water is the source of life.
You’ll get no argument here! It’s as essential to living as the air we breathe, and the bread we eat. Although I’m well prepared to argue the strong case for wine here!
I bring this up because in Modica water is strictly rationed by the comune (council). Well ... sort of! I’ll explain later.
Y’see, we only get mains water for around three hours a day: That’s anytime between around 06:30 to about 10:00.

Public water faucet.

Alice and I share the joke that there’s a wee man employed to turn it on daily. Maybe not a joke though: There’s no rhyme nor reason to when it happens! It’s started as early as 06:20 … and as late as 07:30. Go figure…
Anyways, to ensure your supply during the rest of the day, you must have water tanks in your home. Or ‘on it,’ as most have theirs on the roof. Now we’re lucky ‘cause ours (3x300 litre tanks) are inside our home. So the plastic tanks are not subject to hot or cold weather fluctuations. A key factor when we were looking to buy.
However, sometimes it doesn’t flow due to the poor infrastructure here, post-heavy rain. You gotta learn to live with that.
When I wrote ‘sort of’ earlier, I meant that there are public water faucets dotted all about the place. Here, the water is free, and flows all day. There’s one about 100m down the road from us.
Don’t ask!

More Soon...