Salute!

I made a vow when we first arrived here in September 2020.

And thus far I’ve managed to keep it, I’m proud to say! No deviation. I’ve been all unswerving in my loyalty. Unswayed by others’ opinions.

Cheers...!

And that self-imposed vow? To drink rossi vini (red wines) only and always siciliani (Sicilian).
Okay ... at home. What happens when we visit other people’s homes? Well, in my defence here, I have no (self-)control over that, now do I?
To date, I’ve managed to (heroically) taste 28 distinct local rosso varieties or blends, from 93 different producers. And, if we’re counting different vintages (‘years’) from said producers, well that total would be 124. Concerning the latter, for example, I’ve had three vintages (2018, 2020 and 2021) of Nicosia’s lovely ‘Pinot Nero’.
Now the excellent grape-growing climate here on the island results in the fruit having high sugar levels. What does that mean? Simply put, it means a higher alcoholic content!
Some examples here would be Judeka’s excellent 2020 ‘Cerasuolo di Vittoria’, which was 14%, as was Cusumano’s ‘Nero d’Avola’ from both the 2020 and 2021 vintages. Meanwhile, at the other end of the scale, we can find Cantina Paolini’s wonderful 2020 and 2021 ‘Frappato’ rated at a ‘mere’ 12%, as was Cantina Settesoli’s vegan (yup!) ‘Nerello Mascalese’ from 2019.
And 12% is the lowest I’ve had here!
As I put it last month: The local wines both tickle the palate, and pack a punch. So many wines.
So little time!

Specialities

Last time I mentioned the food here is to die for?
Modica, despite being this small rural city, is known for its characteristic foods.

Nom nom Mpanatigghi...

Take ‘Mpanatigghi’ for instance, a crescent-shaped biscuit traditionally filled with almonds, walnuts, Modican chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, cloves … and ground beef. You read right!

They were likely first created by local pastry cooks during the 16th century Spanish domination of Sicily. Given its name is almost unpronounceable to non-locals, visitors often order them by pointing a finger at them. Like I first did!
Talking of chocolate? We’re also famous for ‘Cioccolato di Modica’.
Another Spanish introduction which tastes nothing like normal chocolate. First the toasted cocoa seeds are (traditionally) hand-ground and cold-processed; the resulting bitter paste then having non-melted sugar added.
Resulting in a ‘crunchy’ texture, with both a sweet and bitter taste. Flavourings can include anything from salt or ginger; to pistachios, citrus fruit, or almonds; or cinnamon, vanilla, or chili pepper. It’s an acquired taste!
Then there’s ‘Scaccia’. Originally a 17th century peasant dish, today it’s ‘native’ to Ragusa and Syracuse provinces, and very popular in Modica.
This baked savoury dish could be described as a cross between lasagne and calzone pizza, or perhaps stuffed flatbread?
Whatever, it’s a thin rectangular layer of dough, filled with ingredients, then folded on itself several times. Its common fillings include various combinations of ricotta, onion, cheese, tomato, or eggplant. But can include potatoes, sausage (my favourite!), broccoli, etc.
And it can be eaten hot or cold.

Security

How can you enjoy the wonderful local food, and that superb island vintage, if’n you don’t feel safe doing it?
So, let’s talk about the state of policing here: A confusing subject, given the bewildering array of law enforcement agencies!
Now the ‘Carabinieri’ are part of the armed forces, so come under the authority of the Ministry of Defence. Housed in barracks, they have a variety of purely military duties.
However, when it comes to internal public order and security, they work with the Ministry of the Interior, thus also acting as a regular police force, responsible for protecting public order and detecting crime.

Lamborghini used for rushed organ transplants

Meanwhile, the ‘Polizia di Stato’ (‘Polizia’) are the main civil police force, run from the Department of Public Security.
Their responsibilities include general investigative and law enforcement duties. They’re also responsible for the security of motorway, rail, and waterway networks.
Unsurprisingly, given the vagueness of their assigned duties, there’s significant overlap between these two agencies!
The ‘Guardia di Finanza’ (‘Financial Police’) are a little different.
They report to the Ministry of Economy and Finance. Also a militarised police force, they’re responsible for dealing with financial crime, smuggling, border policing, and airport customs duties. They’re the primary anti-drug agency.
Last, and certainly least, we come to the 'Polizia Locale' ('Local Police'). These comune-based police forces are responsible for traffic control, licensing, enforcing city bylaws, and local crime prevention and policing.
Here, it’s the 'Polizia Locale Modica'. Who knows what they do all day?
I f’sure don’t!

More Soon...

A List

18 months ago, we picked up the keys to our ‘kiwi4everhome’.

Given this milestone in our new lives, I thought I’d mix it up a little this month!
And, as I’ve always had a soft spot for the film, I thought I’d base this month’s blog on Sergio Leone’s 1966 classic "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly".
Alphabetical, but in no other particular order, here goes:

The Good...

1. Bureaucracy: Why? Because once ‘in the system’ ... you’re ‘in’, and doors start opening! Healthcare, ID, bank accounts, etc., all become way easier to navigate.
2. Crime: Uber-low in Modica. Here fruit shops and supermarkets have their fruit and vege delivered on the street hours before opening, and café owners confidently leave their chairs and tables out.
3. Drink: What can I say? The local vini (wines) both tickle the palate, and pack a punch. So many wines … so little time!

Polpo (Octopus) to die for!

4. Food: Fresh and absolutely to die for. From field to table in hours as we’re living in an agricultural paradise here.
5. Healthcare: The Italian healthcare system may be somewhat ‘creaky’ here in Sicily, but you can pop in to see your GP with no appointment, and prescriptions are cheap.
6. History: F’sure a big plus. We’re both history buffs, and it’s living and breathing all around you here: From the Neolithic to the Baroque.
7. People: A huge plus! We’ve made many friends here, and most locals accept us. Especially once they learn we’re living here.
8. Traditions: Breakfasts of coffee or granita and something sweet? Yes please! And I must admit to loving the afternoon nap. Sorry. Not sorry.
9. Weather: We have blue skies more often than not, even in Winter. And the Summer’s here seem almost endless.
10. Working City: One big reason for being here. Modica isn’t overly reliant on tourists, services a large area, and it’s always bustling.

The Bad...

1. Accents: We’ve found that some people (albeit a minority) increase their prices when we open our mouths. Like those at the local Sunday market, and it can be frustrating.
2. Bureaucracy: In both ‘good’ and ‘bad’ as there’s no getting away from it! Because, with the constant change of governments here, nothing changes and old practises grind on.
3. Cash: Despite successive governments pushing the use of cards, cash is still pretty much king here, so you always have to carry some.

About as useful as you'd expect!

4. Driving: ‘Drive to be first’ is so a mantra here, alongside following too close and motoring too fast. No wonder so many cars sport dings and dents here.
5. Language: This one’s on me. With a wife who speaks fluent Italian, I’ve been way lazy about learning the language, I’m afraid.
6. Noise: With rubbish collectors loudly emptying bins at 5am; workmen starting up at 7am, and scooters roaring about the place, it can get way noisy!
7. Real Estate Agents: A pet peeve of ours. To say they’re useless is doing the useless a disservice! Thankfully in the past now.
8. Secondhand: Except for the monthly Sunday market, there’s no such thing as ‘secondhand’ here, which can be somewhat frustrating.
9. Television: It’s shite, and no mistake! Which means you must sign up for a streaming service or be driven mad!
10. Water: The comune only provides water for around four hours a day, so water conservation has to be a thing here.

...and the Ugly

1. ‘Balcony Dogs’: A very sad problem here. Some owners (literally) leave their dogs, chained up or not, on their balconies or terraces, and they can end up living their entire lives there! And we know many of these poor animals are often not even exercised!

Just left...

2. Abandoned Houses: A recent survey (May 2022) stated that of 5,661 buildings in Modica’s historic centre, a total of 2,174 were empty. Sadly, that’s nearly 40 percent! You see them everywhere here. From older homes to newer apartments, often in a state of disrepair and many entirely neglected.
3. Dog Poop: Another doggy problem here, and it’s everywhere, I’m afraid! Especially off the main streets, but even there. I have to reckon I’ve seen maybe a dozen dog owners picking up after their animals here, and only if they see someone’s watching them. It’s like walking in a minefield.
4. Stray Cats: You’ll find them all over the city. We have several resident in our street. And many are in a terrible condition, missing tails, legs, an eye, with a majority sporting ringworm or worse. They’re not even good ‘mousers’, given the locals insist on feeding them.
5. Upkeep: Given the historical nature of many of the churches, palaces and other edifices here, it’s so sad to see some (not all!) in such a poor state of repair. A majority though do sport weeds, bushes and even entire trees sprouting from their guttering and drainpipes.

To end here, I will say that the ‘good’ I’ve found in Modica far and away outweighs the ‘bad’ and even ‘the ugly’.

But then, life is what you make of it, of course!

More Soon...

Christmas in Modica

One thing I do admire about Modica is the absence of ‘Christmas bling’ on display here.

You see it in the lack of ostentatious, over-the-top, uber-commercial shop window displays. Okay, there are Christmas decorations in shop windows: A few baubles, some tinsel, coloured lights, sometimes Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) dolls, and maybe a twee Christmas message or two.
The latter most often written in English, for some unfathomable reason!

Main street decorations

Anyways, it’s f’sure not like the window and store frontage displays to be seen elsewhere. With said ‘Christmas bling’ most often starting months before the big day, and purely for commercial reasons, of course.
There are, in fact, even fewer flashing lights in the windows than last year, given the price of electricity here.
I believe the reason is that while shop owners naturally want (and need) to make money during this period, Sicilians are even more traditional than other Italians, and there are (as discussed earlier) far more church goers here than elsewhere.
The Christmas season only ‘formally’ starts on the 8th of December, with Italians celebrating l’Immacolata, the day of the Immaculate Conception. This being a catholic festival that celebrates the conception of the Virgin Mary as free from original sin, and it’s a national holiday here.
And it’s only then that most window displays go up. That is: A mere 17 days prior to Christmas Day! For me, that’s one more reason we made the right move back in 2020.
Not that I need more!

Stormy Weather ... Not!

It’s worth noting that December in Modica is not at all like those we enjoyed and/or endured back in London.
F’sure there’s something to be said for cold ‘n crispy days, central heating or open fires, and warm pubs. And I did enjoy all of them, it must be said. Except for the rain, sleet, and hard frosts ... but who enjoys those?
But when you go out for a walk here in a warm jacket and beanie, and end up having to pocket the hat and carry the damn coat because it’s just too warm?
Yes please, of course!

Mid-December beach...

As an example, we visited a local beach mid-December (it was officially 22 celsius at the time), and saw several people sunbathing, and even a few swimming. And then, on Boxing Day (‘il Giorno di Santo Stefano’ or ‘Saint Stephen’s Day’ here), it was 21 celsius with not a cloud to be seen.
Talking of the sky, it’s been chrome blue and pure most days this month. By ‘pure’ I mean the colour is pretty much the same from directly overhead to distant horizon.
A sign I’ve always taken to mean a lack of pollution, and something I often saw back in NZ, not so much in the UK, and was so happy to note it here in our new home. Weather like this improves not only your general wellbeing, but also your mental health.
Okay, it’ll get way colder in January … but still, yeah?

Buon Compleanno

It was Alice’s birthday, so we went away for the night.
Marzamemi is on the Ionian Sea coast, less than an hour’s drive away, and it was an enjoyable break, I have to say.
However, I came away thinking the hamlet (it has less than 400 permanent residents) was really a microcosm of Sicily’s tourism industry. What do I mean by that?

The cliched view

Well, it’s got a lot of history, and of course. In this case dating back to at least the 17th century, and maybe even further. And, despite its ‘touristy’ trappings, it’s still very much a working fishing port. I was lucky enough to watch several boats leave before dawn.
The seafront’s pleasant too. In addition to the fishing port, there’s also a yacht harbour, and sandy bathing beaches. It also has most of the services you’d need to live there: A pharmacy, some general stores, and other shops. And there are larger towns close by.
So that’s all to the good then!
What’s on the other side of the coin?
Now, despite it being off-season, there were several bars open, which you could argue was good. But the drink prices easily matched those we experienced in Syracuse over this last Summer.
As for the restaurants? While the portions were tasty, they were tiny, and the prices ultra-high. Then so many of the (obviously holiday) homes and apartments were empty and unloved.
While Modica is f’sure somewhat ‘touristy’ it has at least managed to keep its soul…

More Soon...

Gettin’ There

Given my medical history, I set a 2021 ‘steps’ goal.

Which I achieved, largely thanks to the fact we didn’t have a car then. I (naturally) upped the ante this year, and was (somewhat) on track to reach said goal. However, this last couple of months have seen this target slipping.
Laziness or circumstance you may ask?
I’m claiming ‘circumstance’! And it’s down to my poor wife. Not Alice’s fault: Rather blame our NZ drivers’ licences.

Got the car at least!

Y’see, when we moved back to the UK, we (again) swapped our NZ licences for local ones. Something we could do, as both countries have a reciprocal agreement in place allowing this. So, armed with those, we happily tootled about the place.
However, when we arrived here, we couldn’t ‘re-swap’ our UK ones for Italian ones.
Something any ‘true Brit’ could, prior to that December Brexit deadline, because ours were seen by the Italian authorities as simply ‘re-skinned’ NZ ones! And NZ and Italy have yet to sign any reciprocal agreement.
Thus, poor Alice must study for, and sit, the Italian licence. Leaving little time for much else.
It must be her because my Italian is years away from being good enough, mainly ‘cause the language used in the theory test is ‘tricksy’! They’re trying to trip people up by using old and/or unusual expressions in the questions, so it’s damned hard to figure out whether it’s “vero o falso”.
While struggling, Alice will do it.
I have absolute faith in her!

Honestly

There’s an underlying sense of ‘honesty’ here.

Pre-opening

You see it in the way that that day’s fruit and vege is left sitting (often unwrapped) outside that yet-to-open fruit shop or supermarket. And no one helps themselves!
That’s astounding to me. Now I ain’t sayin’ that the citizens of those countries I’ve lived in prior were dishonest, it’s just I couldn’t imagine it being done there.
Then there are the cafe owners.
Many of whom seem entirely happy to leave tables and chairs out overnight. Or even when they’re closing for some time. Seemingly oblivious to the fact someone could (quite easily) walk off with said pieces of furniture!
It’s also on show in more ... subtle ... ways.
Like at beaches, where no damns are given about what you look like in that bikini or those budgie smugglers.
And then, when your life comes to its inevitable end, death is accepted openly and honestly, being seen as a part of a life lived. Hence the funeral posters and mourning notices plastered all about the place.
Now f’sure there are ‘rip-off artists’: Witness that fruit shop where they weighed up the six bananas we bought, before sneakily snapping one off without us noticing, and bagging it up! Needless to say, we’ve never been back since. Of course.
Then there are those Sunday Market traders who, as soon as they hear our ‘touristy’ accents, bump up the prices on all their items!
Exceptions that prove the rule, I’m happy to say!

Acqua

It’s said water is the source of life.
You’ll get no argument here! It’s as essential to living as the air we breathe, and the bread we eat. Although I’m well prepared to argue the strong case for wine here!
I bring this up because in Modica water is strictly rationed by the comune (council). Well ... sort of! I’ll explain later.
Y’see, we only get mains water for around three hours a day: That’s anytime between around 06:30 to about 10:00.

Public water faucet.

Alice and I share the joke that there’s a wee man employed to turn it on daily. Maybe not a joke though: There’s no rhyme nor reason to when it happens! It’s started as early as 06:20 … and as late as 07:30. Go figure…
Anyways, to ensure your supply during the rest of the day, you must have water tanks in your home. Or ‘on it,’ as most have theirs on the roof. Now we’re lucky ‘cause ours (3x300 litre tanks) are inside our home. So the plastic tanks are not subject to hot or cold weather fluctuations. A key factor when we were looking to buy.
However, sometimes it doesn’t flow due to the poor infrastructure here, post-heavy rain. You gotta learn to live with that.
When I wrote ‘sort of’ earlier, I meant that there are public water faucets dotted all about the place. Here, the water is free, and flows all day. There’s one about 100m down the road from us.
Don’t ask!

More Soon...

Shout-Out

One (of many) benefits we have here is the Italian healthcare system.

A prime benefit simply being able to walk in and see our doctor anytime his surgery is open. No appointment necessary, and free.
And there appear to be doctors everywhere!
Some dry stats f’sure point to this being the case: In 2020 the UK had 3.03 doctors per 1,000 people, placing it 20th in the world; NZ was ranked 13th, with 3.43; while Italy places 8th with 4 doctors for every 1,000 citizens. In the US (2019) it was 2.64.
So, seeing a GP here isn’t a problem.
One worry though, when we first arrived, was our prescription medicine. Okay, we’d brought a good supply of meds with us when we landed back in September 2020. Despite being in the midst of the pandemic. But that only amounted to a two-to-three-month supply.

The healthcare card.

A worry made even worse because we couldn’t register with a GP until we’d been formally enrolled with the Azienda Sanitaria Locale (local health board). Something that didn’t happen until February 2021.
Imagine our surprise then, when we walked into a pharmacy and asked what we could do about getting said meds, we found each one was available over the counter! Albeit at a (reasonable) price.
Cheaper now we’re actually enrolled, of course.
Now let’s talk about dentists: Italy places 4th in the world for them. Again: Easy to see, and (relatively) cheap. A very welcome finding, trust me here!
Given how my teeth are.

The Switch

Autumn in the northern hemisphere is ‘officially’ between September and November.
That doesn’t mean the weather suddenly gets cooler come September, of course. Far from it here in Sicily, where the days are nearly as warm as August ... but the nights get just a tad cooler.
A welcome change for some: I’m looking at you, Alice! For me, not so much.

A 'benefit'...

Anyways, we were told, earlier this year, that the change between Spring and Summer would be like “A light switch”. One day Spring ... the next Summer. And that f’sure proved to be the case last May.
The same can be said for the late Summer to early Autumn ‘switch’.
Which I can now say occurred overnight between Tuesday the 18th and Wednesday the 19th of October 2022. At least here in Modica.
I witnessed this change myself because most mornings I go for a walk around dawn. And the difference between that Tuesday and Wednesday was very marked. Cool-ish one morning compared to cold-ish the next ... and from that day on, too.
Now we still have warm days here, hot ones even, but the evenings and early mornings are ‘crisper’, and I’m back to wearing jeans again. Sigh...
The nail in this particular coffin was the clocks going back yesterday. It’s our third Autumn in Modica then.
It’s not all ‘bad news’ mind you. ‘Tis the season for watermelons, olives, pomegranates, chestnuts, pistachios, walnuts, hazelnuts and cactus fruits (including our own!).
So mustn’t grumble!

Little Things

It’s the little things that often make all the difference.
A difference especially to your physical and mental wellbeing. A big thing at any time in your life ... no matter your age or circumstance. And that’s f’sure the case for the pair of us here in Modica. Thankfully!

Another 'benefit'...

Things like being greeted by name when you’re out-and-about.
By people who genuinely care about your answer to their “Come va?” (“How are you?”). And who appreciate, in turn, you asking them the same thing. Whether it’s a waitress or cafe owner, a shop manager or checkout person, or indeed that retired doctor or neighbour on her way to the shops.
It makes a huge difference: You feel accepted and, therefore, more accepting of others.
Knowing whereabouts you are in your home town, no matter where you find yourself in it, is another plus.
It’s like the city itself has accepted you, because you appreciate its many twists and turns, steps up and down, uncovered shortcuts, and quirky ways. Something you can only do by taking the time to walk it, like we did before having to get a car.
Of course, sometimes it’s those things that others may think are way less ‘important’.
Like being able to indulge my love for ‘peanut butter’, even here! Okay it’s a tad expensive. Or that I can order a ciambella at a number of cafes. Because everyone knows a ring doughnut is one of life’s essentials!
Do appreciate what you have.

More Soon...

Heart of the Matter

On Thursday the 10th of September 2015, I experienced the first of two heart attacks.

Which I entirely ignored: Putting it down to just being tired after a long walk.
The second happened the following Saturday night, and that did scare me. Because that one I entirely recognised for what it was. However, as it occurred while I was lying in bed, I promptly fell asleep afterwards!
Go figure!

'Hospital Property' indeed!

Despite that, in denial, I still ignored what had happened, and carried on as normal that Sunday. Further proof, if needed, that men are doofuses when it comes to medical issues! Waking up Monday though, feeling both unwell and somewhat guilty by then, I thought it best I mention said episodes to Alice.
Who promptly dragged me off to our doctor. All the while, quite correctly, lecturing me on the need to look after myself, given my family’s medical history. It was, and of course, the right thing to do.
The doctor promptly fired up the ECG machine and, despite finding nothing concerning, an ambulance was nevertheless called, and off to hospital we went.
I mentioned my family’s medical history? Well … my father died at 47, and my grandfather at 57, both from heart disease. “What an idiot!” you’re thinking.
And you’d f’sure be right! But, while there’s a lesson here for everyone not to do what I did, I’m thankful in a bizarre way.
Because without this life-changing incident … my life wouldn’t have changed.
 

Celebrations

It’s always good to reflect on where you are in life right now.
It helps to sharpen and bring into focus what’s important and, equally, what’s not. Perhaps as important though is the need to celebrate what’s gone before.
My heart attack ‘milestone’ maybe not being the cause for any celebration, of course!
But thinking about the more heart-warning here, September f’sure is the month for great joy in la famiglia Kelly.

Lucky me...

I mean, last Saturday (the 24th) saw Alice and me celebrating our 34th wedding anniversary: We were married, in Wellington NZ, way back in 1988. More than a lifetime ago for some reading this blog!
While it seems a lifetime ago for us too ... it also feels like only yesterday that I was stammering through my wedding vows opposite the most wonderful person I’d ever met. Lucky for me then that I get to be with that very same wonderful person each and every day then!
I say that (not only) ‘cause it’s true but because, without Alice, I couldn’t possibly be here: In Italy; and in Sicily. She’s made that a reality.
Another happy milestone occurred yesterday: My 64th birthday. I now f’sure have more history than future, but that’s okay. I’m entirely happy now in my own (albeit wrinkled) skin.
Something else I can thank my wife and, by extension Sicily, for!
Our eldest, Adam, also turns 31 on the 29th. Yet another reason to raise a glass.
No excuse really needed, of course!

Last But Not Least

As I said: September is f’sure a month for milestones and celebrations.
And there’s still more to come, sorry. Not sorry.
Because, y’see, I began my “kiwi4everhome” blog two and a half years ago.
On Thursday the 26th of March 2020 that was: Two and a half years ago to the day mind you! Why did I decide I had to put aside several hours each month to do so? Well, initially, it was to scribe down what we were then doing about changing our lives.
Or thinking about doing. All the while hoping it’d be for the better, of course.
Now though it’s morphed nicely into what it’s like actually living here in Modica. A change for the better I have to say.

Anyways, on Saturday the 26th of September 2020, we boarded our 11:45 EasyJet flight from London to Catania. That one-way flight being six months to the day after beginning this blog. Was this ‘serendipity’, ‘synchronicity’ … or mere ‘coincidence’?
I don’t particularly care really. Because whatever it was, it does mean today is, and naturally, a cause for especial celebration. As that flight was itself exactly two years ago.
In ending, I’ll just say that the last two and a half years since the 26th of March 2020 have been one hell of a ride! And y’know, I still have a .pdf copy of that boarding pass, just in case we ever forget.
Not that that’s very likely to happen, of course.

More Soon...

Vita è Troppo Breve

Life is too short indeed.

Why state the obvious here? Because of course you always think about stuff like this when something tragic happens.

In our case, it was the heart-breaking news that the husband of a friend of ours died this month. From cancer. That most cruel of all diseases.
Now Alice and I didn’t know him as well as we should (could) have, but then we all get wrapped up in our own lives. No excuse I know, but that’s one of the (other) harsh realities of life.
Human nature being what it is, when you get the saddest of news like this you get to thinking about your own life. You begin weighing up the pros and cons of what you have, or have not, done. What you’ve achieved during the limited time we all have. And equally so … what you haven’t.
But I have to reckon this need not necessarily be a depressing subject to think about.
We all are, after all, merely human and therefore all of us are ‘accident prone’. By that I mean subject to making what could be seen as ‘mistakes’ or ‘miscalculations’, rather than ‘wins’.
It’s all about balance. If’n at the end of our days, long or cut short, others can say with some certainty that the good we did, or that was in us, outweighed the bad, then that’s gotta count as a ‘win’, surely?

But by any measure, Jon was a good man.

Theatre

Statistically, a higher percentage of Sicilians regularly attend church than elsewhere in Italy.
While not ‘scientific proof’, I’m happy to attest that I’ve noticed this when out walking in the city on any given Sunday morning.

Seen outside an abandoned home...

Certainly, more are going to church in Modica than I noticed when visiting and/or living in the north of the country. I’m talking young families here too, not just the middle-aged, or the solo elderly.
Now I’m not religious at all. Something I won’t apologise for I’m afraid, but then I do have respect for those who believe.
I will, however, admit to attending more masses in the last two years than I have in the previous decade at least! It’d be uber-hard not to in a place often described as “The city of a hundred churches”.
Why have I been to so many? Well, there are two distinct reasons.
Firstly, a mass always proceeds a religious procession. Such processions are great pageants to witness, and do bring a community together in a way nothing else can seem to. Except perhaps football! Anyways, I believe that if’n you’re attending one ... then at the very least you should attend the other.
The other reason being that I enjoy the ‘theatre’ of Roman Catholicism. There’s so obviously comfort in, for example, the reciting of the rosary before a mass that I find fascinating. Also, when you’ve decided to settle somewhere, shouldn’t you respect the local social customs?
It’s the very least one can do.

Cavalcades

I’ve talked before of these local religious festivals-come-processions?
Specifically, April’s “Madonna Vasa Vasa” and “Festa di San Giorgio”. Both of which were widely advertised, being big draw cards for, besides us locals, other Sicilians and loadsa tourists too.
But there are many others not so well known. And perhaps more important to their communities as these grander affairs are to the wider city, of course!
And many of them remain unknown to us imports. Modicans know all about them: It’s just that the locals seem to assume we should too.
Somehow.

A for-instance here: A modicano friend, when asked about any festivals coming up in June, stated there weren’t any. Yet when I queried about the “Corpus Domini” one I thought was on that month? His answer was: “Yes … except for that one, of course.”
So, for my own piece of mind here (and perhaps for others?), I’ve decided I’d better create a webpage listing all the known “Feste a Modica” (Modican Festivals). I mean: I spent hours on Google trying to make a definitive list and, while I did uncover several, I only discovered two by stumbling across random posters, in dusty shop windows, down side streets…
All that aside, and thus far, my list stretches to a grand total of 17! Albeit three of these don’t involve actual processions, but are of great local importance, so f’sure warrant inclusion.
Why am I so interested?
Well, are we not now both a part of this community too?

More Soon...

Un Giorno Felice!

A very happy day!

The 29th of July has been a day of celebration for us for the last 28 years. Because it’s our youngest son’s birthday. Especially important this year as he got married this month too!
However, this year the 29th takes on even more importance ... because it also happens to mark the first anniversary of us picking up the keys to our ‘kiwi4everhome’.
Yup!

A year ago today, we popped into our ufficio notarile (notary’s office) and scored the keys to our dream home. And such it has turned out to be too: Our safe haven against the outside world; our little corner of this planet that no one can take away from us; in short ... our forever home.
A place that’s proven, time and again, to be more than adequate for a couple of old(er) Kiwis!
Especially now that we’ve got it into a state we’re very happy with. I mean: We’ve replaced all the windows with double-glazed ones; we installed a brand-new kitchen; and, except for a couple of pieces, all of our furniture is brand new too.
Of course, we’d chosen the property initially because we thought its location would be perfect. Being within a few minutes’ walk (no stairs!) from about every retail establishment we’d ever require.
I’m talking supermarkets, chemists, bakeries, butchers, fish shops, etc., here, as well as the equally-important cafes and bars! And we park our car only a few minutes away.
Happy days indeed!

No Place Like It?

We arrived back from our son’s wedding in Mexico recently.
Afterwards, I posted this on Facebook: “Landing in Rome didn’t do it … but landing in Catania did. It felt like arriving HOME…”

And it really was the strangest feeling for me. I mean, I’ve always been a bit of a ‘gypsy’? Someone who likes to move about the place. Someone who, quite frankly, has always found it hard to settle down. Anywhere.
Ask my long-suffering wife!
Look at our shared life over the last 37 years: We’d settle in the UK (Basingstoke, Windsor, Hornchurch) then a few years later would up and move back to NZ (Wellington, Napier, Auckland). Rinse-and-repeat!
Something also reflected in my so-called ‘career’. Since getting my start in IT in 1985, I’ve held over 40 positions in as many different companies, in five different countries!
Was this because my father stayed at the same mind-numbingly boring job for decades until he died? And that wasn’t going to be my fate? Maybe. Maybe not.
F’sure my parents never moved once they’d settled down to raise their family. I cannot say the same, I’m afraid!
When I was in my 40’s, a friend said I’d have to settle down some time. I told him I was too damned old to settle down! And so it proved.
But arriving In Catania felt … different. It felt like I’d arrived. ‘Home’, like I said.
I’ll state here for the record: I ain’t ever moving again.

Had to Happen?

In March 2020, we survived the first UK lockdown.
That over, in July 2020, we managed to travel to Sicily for our successful ‘fact-finding’ trip-come-holiday. Decision made, we landed here in September to begin our new life in Modica. Incidentally, beating by days a travel ban from the UK!

Nasty little buggers...!

Since then, we survived any number of national, island-wide and local lockdowns without incident. We kept to the rules; we kept safe; and we were uber-sensible. As one should be, of course!
Then, in July 2022, it was off to Ensenada in Mexico, to witness our youngest son get married.
A welcome addition to the family, a wonderful country, and new friends (and relatives!) made. In short: An absolute joy, and an experience I wouldn’t change for anything.
Well … except for maybe one little thing.
Y’see, we survived that four-flight journey from Tijuana in Mexico to Catania, arriving home in Modica on the afternoon of Thursday the 14th. Jet-lagged f’sure, but otherwise happy enough.
But then the next day Alice said she felt unwell. Long story short: COVID!
It took her nine days to shake it off. And wouldn’t you know it, after thinking myself somehow ‘immune’, on Friday 22nd of July, I also tested positive.
Luckily, we had (have) only mild symptoms: Sore throat, a cough, tiredness and (in my case) grumpiness! Likely thanks to having three vaccinations, I’m sure, but still very unpleasant.
Update: Tested on Thursday the 28th July … and I’m COVID free!

More Soon...

A Day in the Life

What's a ‘typical’ day like for me then?

As you'd expect, given retirement, it ain't gonna consist of trotting off to an office, I’m afraid.
Sorry. Not sorry!

My favourite early morning view - up to Alta

Anyways, what does a 'standard' day here involve then? Now I'm an early riser, often only managing five to six hours sleep a night so, in order to wake myself up, I go for a brisk walk most mornings.
Once back, I park myself in front of my PC and get on with any correspondence, checking my social media, labelling photos, language learning ... and sometimes even writing a blog!
As Alice is often still asleep, this is my 'me time', and it's also the time when I have my two (large) daily coffees. I'm so a creature of habit now!
Then there’s doing stuff about the house and/or going for a sight-seeing drive out of Modica. Once that’s done, it has to be ‘nanny-nap’ time! Given my lack of sleep, you’ll get no apology from me.
Once up, it’s back on my PC until the ‘grumpy old man’ phase passes then, as so many locals do, we’ll often go out for another walk (la passeggiata).
Here Alice will try and keep me away from any bar we happen to pass, then it’s back home for dinner. Evenings often consist of sitting up on the terrace, and then watching some TV show, movie or YouTube before bed.
Rinse and repeat? Maybe.
But I love my life now!

Un Aperitivo

On the subject of bars, ordering an aperitivo (apéritif) or digestivo (digestif) is so a thing here.

A way of life that I've fully embraced. Need proof? Ask my wife!
For the uneducated, what's the difference then?
An aperitivo's an alcoholic drink one should enjoy before a meal 'to stimulate the appetite', and it's usually more dry than sweet. Now a digestivo is also a dry-ish alcoholic drink, but one taken after a meal 'to aid the digestion', as the name implies.
Please do note: In either case, we're not talking breakfast here! I mean, everyone knows that's the time for a caffè corretto, of course.

Our aperitivi of choice...

Anyways, given how 'late' most Italians dine, a classic Italian aperitivo should be enjoyed sometime between 7pm and 9pm. And one of the most popular here in Modica would be the 'Aperol Spritz', or simply 'Spritz', as it's the most common type.
This is Alice's favourite, while my aperitivo of choice would be the even more bitter 'Campari Spritz'. Either way, such drinks should contain the likes of dry vermouth, Campari, gin, etc., being dry and/or bitter.
In contrast, digestivi often contain more sugar and/or alcohol, thereby offering a somewhat richer flavour. Great examples would be a shot of limoncello or, and my personal favourite, a grappa.
Now there are some who claim a glass of wine can be an aperitivo or digestivo? Even a semi-sweet prosecco. Sacrilege, I say!
But whatever your poison of choice: ‘Cin cin’ (‘Cheers’) or ‘Salute’ (‘Health’).

“Not That One!”

As we’ve now covered when to drink what.
Or should that read what to drink when? Either way, the burning question now becomes: Where to drink it?
Now it’s here I’ve found, over the course of our three-plus decades together, that I’m … somewhat … less discriminating than my lovely wife. At least when it comes to drinking places.
When walking about a less salubrious part of any town or city, a typical conversation runs something like: "What about this bar then?" Alice’s answer here most often being: "Not that one!"
And that, as it should be of course, is that.

One of our favourites: 'Bar del Duomo'

Luckily for me then, there seem to be few of ‘those’ types of establishments here! In fact, we’ve a great choice in Modica, this being a tourist destination and all.
However, such areas can be expensive. And that’s why we always ‘spread the love’ when it comes to which bar and/or café we choose to spend our hard-earned euros in. I say this because we have friends here who religiously stick with one establishment only. Their ‘local’ if you will.
While I for one see nothing wrong with that: It’s just that each and every place has its pros and cons. And we’ve found, during our travels, that not spending all our time in one tends to balance such things out.
Before you ask? F’sure there are some establishments here even I wouldn’t be caught dead in!
Being those tabaccai (tobacconists) with attached bar places mainly...

More Soon...

 

Summertime

When it's 22C at 05:58 in late May, you know Summer's just around the corner!

Meaning, in combination with a humidity reading of only 37%, that the living's suddenly become easy.

Damn hot...!

Someone stated Spring would literally switch to Summer over the course of a single day here. They were right! We were just too busy to notice last year.
Anyways, I adore Summer: The endless sunny days; the azure-blue cloudless skies; the midday stillness and quiet; needing to only wear minimal clothing; and having to drink plenty of liquids.
Although Alice spoils the latter by stating that doesn't include alcohol. But still, it all combines to make this my favourite season of all.
Okay, it can f'sure get hot. Here in SE Sicily, it officially reached 48.8C last August! And, given climate change, it's very likely to reach that (at least) again.
Now is there such a thing as 'too hot'?
The answer is an obvious 'yes', of course, but if'n you're sensible, it's standable. I mentioned that quiet around midday? That's because sensible locals are indoors, with their blinds drawn, staying as cool as they can.
The midday riposo of two to three-plus hours many businesses and offices take here turns from minor annoyance into entirely understandable!
At its most extreme, stepping out into the sun can hit you like a wall of heat. And we experienced just that last year. At least four times over that Summer.
But we’re sensible … and it’s coming up watermelon season!

Growing Season

Spring and early Summer here in Sicily means the growing season.
That and the re-appearance of the uber-fast, acrobatic Swifts from sub-Saharan Africa, of course.
However, along with the many and varied seasonal crops produced here for us to so enjoy dining upon, it's also time for weeds and other unwanted plants. Which, and naturally, also enjoy a revival at this time of year!
They're flowering, which okay can be a feast for the eyes, but they're not welcome in certain 

The wall of a local school

areas: Like in the many crevices of our centuries-old home.
Now we've handled our particular situation by nuking 'em with weed killer. RIP weeds! But others aren't doing the same, and that's a real shame.
I'm not talking 'bout our fellow homeowners here, if'n they want plants growing in, on and about their buildings? Fill ya boots, as they say. That's entirely their prerogative.
No, what I'm talking about here are our local monuments and/or tourist attractions: The many churches; and both civic and privately-owned historic buildings.
The vast majority of which sport weeds. Growing from their roofs, window ledges, and cracks-and-crevices. There doesn’t appear to be a single one here without them!
I mean: There’s nothing more disconcerting than gazing up in wonder at a 300-plus year-old architectural masterpiece … and seeing a 2m fig tree growing from a rain spout 20m above your head … or maybe a cactus sprouting from its guttering or roof.
I know money’s tight, but surely something could be done?

Speaking the Lingo

Alice speaks fluent Italian, and is often praised for it.
Now she'll claim she isn't that fluent: That she still struggles with some concepts and technical terms? But if you can get a local bureaucrat onside; argue with delivery men; and explain exactly what's required to your builder?
Then you're 'fluent enough' yeah?

On the other hand, there's me. Still struggling with stringing sentences together; forgetting words I know I know (if you know what I mean?); and only remembering what I should've said way after the fact...
I have to say, some concepts in Italian drive me crazy!
Take gender now: Italian uses grammatical gender, even for the inanimate. For example, while a candle (candela) or an orange (arancia) are feminine; a chicken (pollo) or umbrella (ombrello) are masculine.
Then a moment (momento) is male; while an hour (ora) is female. At least those ‘a’ and ‘o’ endings help!
Then there are adjectives. Which are usually after the noun they modify, and agree with the nouns in gender and number.
For example, il vestito rosso means 'the red dress', but (literally) is written and said as 'the dress red'. And this becomes i vestiti rossi when it's 'dresses'.
And don't get me started on verbs! In English 'to say' in the present tense uses 'say' or 'says' ... but dire (to say) here is either dico, dici, dice, diciamo, dite or dicono!

On the up side, pronunciation is fairly easy, being phonetic more often than not.

More Soon...