Ghost Town?

There’s been a bit of a buzz around what’s happening (not happening) to Modica’s centri storici (historic centres).

Before continuing: Yes … we have two historic centres here. One’s where we live, Modica Bassa (the ‘low’ part of the city); while the other’s in Modica Alta (the ‘high’ part). Modica Sorda must be mentioned here, as it represents the newer part of the city.

These three names are locally given, and won’t appear on any official map.
Now Sorda is by far the biggest district: A sprawling-ugly 20th century addition, full of soulless apartment blocks. What it does have though is larger supermarkets, shopping centres, a major hospital, and somewhat better infrastructure and services.
Why the recent ‘buzz’ though?
It’s because of the work of a local citizen's action group, the “Associazione ModicAltra”, who conducted a building survey of one square kilometre of the historic centres of both Modica Bassa and Alta.

They registered a total of 5,661 homes … of which 2,174 were empty. That 38 percent being due to either outright abandonment or them simply not being lived in by their owners. I’m sure any number of non-used ‘BnB’s are included in that number. We have many of those!
It’s something those of us living here are fully aware of, of course.
Solutions? Maybe money? Possibly incentives? Perhaps the political will to do something about it? All sadly lacking, I’m afraid!
And not just here: The whole of Italy is fighting against the tide of history…

Preference

We’re now amid what I call “Procession Season” here in the religious South.
Have to say it though, and don’t get me wrong here: I like the “Madonna ‘Vasa Vasa’” (“Madonna ‘Kiss Kiss’”) parade.

'Festa di San Giorgio' 2024

That’s the one where the risen Christ is greeted by his up-to-then-mourning mother, the Madonna, in the streets of Modica Bassa. It’s attended by tens of thousands of locals and visitors/tourists alike, and is rightly renowned across Italy (and beyond) for both its spectacle and religious significance.
It’s just that, for me, it’s a little too … sterile. A little too ‘showy’, maybe a wee bit too ‘touristy’, for the likes of me. That’s just my opinion, mind: For me at least, it doesn’t really do too much, I’m afraid!
That said, let’s talk about the “Festa di San Giorgio” (“Saint George’s Day”) parade.
This occurred two days ago, and it’s f’sure something else entirely! While also spectacular, religiously significant and, yes, ‘showy’ too, there’s an absolute joy in the proceedings that’s something you must experience for yourself.
To me, it’s a much more personal celebration by its citizens of the city they live in: San Giorgio being the city’s patron saint after all. Do remember that it is essentially a ‘Modica Alta’ celebration, with all that that entails (see my post above). This is because the Duomo (Cathedral) of Saint George is in Alta, not Bassa.
One local described this parade as being “too pagan”, and I agree.
Because it does feel almost that!

My New ‘Job’

Back in September 2023, I created my "All Things Modica" Facebook page.

And I didn’t quite realise then what I was getting myself in to! I mean: It takes hours of my time each day now. Trolling through seven local news outlets; the comune (council) and local police websites; and specific Facebook groups and pages dedicated to Modica , including those covering local churches.
It’s almost turned into a ‘job’ now … as my long-suffering wife has pointed out on several occasions.
Maybe true, but if so, it’s a job I really like doing. Thankfully.
But hey, I’m not complaining. I’m more than grateful for all the ‘likes’, ‘shares’ and ‘views’ I’ve been getting over the last eight months. Keep ‘em coming, I say!
It’s just that it does make me a little sad (and somewhat frustrated) that Modica, my hometown, is just so poor at advertising themselves really.
Why should someone like me be doing this, albeit for mostly English speakers? I constantly come across events advertised only days (and sometimes even hours) before they’re due to kick off. And that’s if I’m lucky enough to find them before they’ve happened.
Now the comune do maintain a ‘Tourist Office’ here, but as one follower said recently: “You know more about what’s happening than they do!” And, self-congratulations aside, that’s not a good thing! Okay, nobody likes being bombarded with adverts, but then ‘good’ advertising is sadly lacking here.
C’mon Modica … do me out of a job!

More Soon...

Easy Livin’

We’re now heading into Summer here.

And that’s with a heartfelt “About damn time!” from me, I have to say! Given I was born and raised in warm climes, I find I’m more of a ‘Summer person’. Especially nowadays, as it helps these now-aching old(er) bones.

Pozzallo Beach

As George Gershwin put it: “Summertime, and the livin’ is easy...” And it is here in Modica.
It’s easy to be happier when not only is the sun shining, but it’s also uber-warm with it. Okay, the sun does shine a lot of the time in the other seasons, but it lacks that long-and-lazy days feel that comes with true Summer.
And I’m not the only one who loves this season. No, I’m not (only) thinking ‘bout Alice: I’m talking about my cactuses here! Because they, like me, thrive in warmer temperatures, of course. I mean: It’s way easier to be upbeat about life, the universe and everything … when the sun’s high and hot in a deep azure sky.
Now, there will be nay-sayers who’ll instead quote “The Lovin' Spoonful” at me: “All around, people looking half-dead…”
And that can be true, I must admit, ‘cause it f’sure did get over 40°C several times last year. My answer to that’d be while they may be right (at times), the positives of a warm climate far outweigh the negatives.
And there are many ways to cool down and keep hydrated on such days … cold wine immediately springing to mind here!
Naturally!

100 Churches?

Modica’s been called the “Città delle 100 Chiese” (“City of 100 Churches”) which, while great marketing, isn’t that far from the truth.
For instance, it’s known that in 1600 there were at least 95 churches in Modica, because of a list prepared by a 17th century historian, backed up since by others using notarial deeds, church records, etc., which referenced them all.
So that’s that then.

Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Grazie

But this is 2024, and much has changed in the last 400 years, of course: Not least of all six minor and major earthquakes since 1169!
Now I can name (and show you photos of) at least 41 churches you can still find in both Modica Bassa and Alta, the two oldest parts of the city. Seventeen of which are deconsecrated.
Why deconsecrated? There are any number of reasons: But mostly it’d be down to attendance drastically declining, caused by depopulation alongside the resulting economic downturn. Albeit only in certain quarters of Modica. There are way more than those seventeen too: Many have been turned into private residences or workplaces, so are hard to find.
Why bring this up? Because of those that you can still find, many are in a terrible state! I mean: Roofs caved in, rubble and dust everywhere, windows covered or broken, weeds growing all about the place.
Anywhere else they’d maybe be looked after. It’s very sad, but there’s neither the money or the will to fix them up here.
Which means they just rot in peace…

‘Tis the Season

Given we’re discussing churches?
As inevitably as Spring follows Winter, ‘Stagione delle Processioni’ (‘Procession Season’) is once again upon us. That’s my handle for it anyways. You won’t find any local calling it by that (somewhat?) sacrilegious name!
That’s because, to many here, it’s something personal to them. Personal to their particular ‘quartiere’ (‘quarter’) of Modica.

Okay, there’s today’s “Madonna ‘Vasa Vasa’” and April’s “Festa di San Giorgio”. Both well known amongst Sicilians and tourists alike: They’re huge draw cards for the city. They, however, are more the exception that proves the rule.
No, I’m talking about those more local, far less well-known, religious festivals-come-processions that follow the ‘Big Two’.
Ones, in some ways, far more significant to their communities than those (albeit important) grander affairs are to the wider city. Significant because they’re venerated and celebrated on a far more personal level by their parishioners.
They do fascinate me, as I love the ‘theatre’ of them, and we’ve attended many in the years we’ve been here.
Although you can feel yourself being more ‘observer’ than ‘participant’ at times. It’s not that you’re unwelcome or anything. Far from it!
It’s just you can feel the local’s eyes upon you. Which could be ‘translated’ as: What are these ‘stranieri’ (‘foreigners’) doing here? Although it’s more likely they’re actually thinking: Why haven’t we seen these two at mass before?
Do I feel guilty about that? A little, I have to say.
Not nearly enough to stop me going though!

More Soon...

Quirky Too

Last year, I wrote about some of the quirks I’ve come across living here.

It’s time to do a ‘part two’, I reckon!
Why’s that? Because I’ve always loved people-watching, a trait I happen to share with many of the locals.

I'm not yelling ... I'm Italian!

First off, there’s that habit of most people talking into their mobiles on speaker ... because they hold them horizontally in front of them. What this can mean is you’re often able to hear both sides of any conversation, of course.
None of your mundane ‘phone-to-ear’ thing here!
Then there’s that willingness to entirely block the footpath when they happen to meet friends on the street. Greetings and gossip must be exchanged there and then.
There’s no moving aside to let others pass: This isn’t the UK, y’know!
Now, a pet peeve of Alice’s is that individuals or groups will pass between tables at that cafe you’re sitting at, rather than go around. Even if there’s little room to do so.
They’re like water: Path of least resistance, and all that!
Next up, let’s cover that ‘no short conversation’ rule the majority comply with here. I mean, why use 10 words, when 100 can also convey the same message? Sicilians (and Italians in general) like a long conversation, and if’n it’s important to them, then it should be to you too!
Now this I don’t mind: I’ve never been one to shy from hearing my own voice!
However, and whatever their (many) quirks … gotta love ‘em!

Our Front Door

There are so many impressions, sensations and emotions colouring our lives on a daily basis.
These can easily, and equally perhaps, please or motivate us; or else leave us apathetic or agitated. But let’s not dwell on that last bit here! No.

What I’d like to talk about is that feeling of bliss you get when closing your front door firmly behind you on the outside world. Something I feel at least once a day, and often way more than that: We’re not hermits after all!
Why I bring this up is because it’s one sentiment I hadn’t really felt for the four years between September 2017 and August 2021. Four years when we didn’t feel settled. When we were ‘transitioning’ from an old life grown stale to a new one filled with endless possibilities.
Overly dramatic prose aside, there’s a good argument here for that period being longer than four years because, by 2017, I’d grown weary of (or maybe outgrown?) New Zealand.
It didn’t help that I’d been almost constantly questioning and reevaluating my life and career post-heart attack; that both of our sons were then overseas; and that we were rattling about in a four-bedroom, three-bathroom house in the ‘burbs. The latter being a constant reminder of the two former states, of course.
But nowadays, I once again get that nicely-blissful feeling when closing the front door behind me. The outside world can stay just where it is.
This is where I belong now.

Spring Has (Nearly) Sprung!

Spring is just around the corner here in southern Europe.

An almond tree in blossom...

I can feel it while taking my morning walk as it’s not (quite) as cold as it was last month. You can see it too, as many of the plants and trees (and weeds!) are flowering in Modica and its surrounds now. Especially those white-blossomed almond trees, which look so awesome against their still-green country backdrop.
Always a good sign, I have to reckon. And a sign that I, like so many others around here, must start getting busy preparing. Although, in my case, I’m preparing my cactus ‘babies’ for their Spring re-awakening!
So, I’ve been busy in the last few days carefully evaluating each and every plant of the (currently) 28 different types of cactuses I have in my collection. Why so? Because you have to remember the majority of ‘em were last watered on Thursday the 19th October 2023!
I know this because I keep extensive notes on all of ‘em. And ‘yes’, I’m particular and peculiar, ‘cause I wasn’t born with anything like a ‘Green Thumb’, I’m afraid.
Okay, those which remained outside have been getting rained upon from time to time, but that’s not been too common an occurrence around here for the last several months. And anyways, most of those outdoors are more mature plants, which can easily shrug off a bit of cold and damp.
It seems to have been a long time coming: I’m ready…
Bring on Spring now!

More Soon...

No ‘Turtling’ Here!

Even in Sicily, Winter is upon us!

Although in Modica, while the night-time temperatures have dropped (between 2c and 7c for the next 10 days), the daily temperatures are quite good (between 13c and 17c), and it can certainly feel nicely mild, at least in the sunshine.
You’re aware I cultivate cactuses and succulents, but you may not be aware the majority aren't at all cold-tolerant, given most are from the southern USA, Mexico, and South America in some cases. Which is why my cactuses enter a state of 'dormancy' during these colder months ... while my succulents will also slow down their growth and water requirements during this period too.
They're 'turtling', as I call it.
Now I've found some people also appear to display the same behaviour? As in: They'll also 'turtle' during the colder months; staying indoors or, at the very least, limit their travels about the place to the barest minimum.
I, however (and we), refuse to do so! This is our fourth Winter here, and we simply refuse to curtail our 'outdoor activities' during this period of relative cold.
Why would we, and why should we? In many ways, it's the best time of the year to be out-and-about the place. There are few if any tourists about, which means we often have the places we visit to ourselves. Case In point: Beaches are often bereft of all but a few dog-walkers.
And, given the sunshine, why wouldn’t you want to go?

Friends Can Help...

We recently had friends come visit all the way from New Zealand.
Over 18,000 kilometres away ... and big ups for that! Alright, they did visit other places first of course, but still...
Why am I bringing this up? Well, it’s because ‘virgin visitors’ to your wee corner of the world f’sure bring out the dormant ‘tourist guide’ in you! And I, for one, delighted in playing said ‘tourist guide’ for three first-time Kiwis.

Those drystone walls...

Now, before they arrived, I’d drafted up (I always do for most anything!) a list of ‘must-see’, ‘may-see’ and ‘if’n we have time-see’ sights I reckoned they’d all be interested in. An action vindicated by the fact they at least seemed to thoroughly enjoy themselves.
We took in the local sights first, of which Modica has many I’m happy to report, before branching out into the local countryside on excursions to 4,000-year-old burial sites, Byzantine-era cave-homes, and two nearby beaches! Then it was off on a road trip to the nearby ‘big city’ of Siracusa (Syracuse), for its Greek temple, medieval castle, sacred spring and so many churches.
The road trip itself also proved ‘educational’, as we were, after all, driving through the heart of the countryside to get there. Those drystone walls in our province are awesome!
While it was Winter, the weather god (that’s Zeus or Jupiter here) blessed us with cool and sometimes even warm, non-rainy days, which we were able to take maximum advantage of.
I thoroughly enjoyed myself!

Resigned

I’d been an Admin for the 596-member “Kiwis in Italy” Facebook page since last year.
This Facebook group being for those “Kiwis intending to be in Italy or partners / family members of potential Kiwis in Italy to swap stories, tips and support each other.” A worthy cause, and a well worthy group too, of course.

However, unfortunately (fortunately?), I had to let go because my “All Things Modica” Facebook page has really taken off! I created this page back in September 2023, and posted for the first time on the 15th September. Alice (naturally) was my very first subscriber/follower but, over the next four months, this grew exponentially to its current total of 51 ‘Likes’ and 70 ‘Followers’!
Updating this page daily now takes up a lot of time y’see ... as I set myself the (albeit self-inflicted) task of trolling through each-and-every local news website; other Modican (in Italian/Sicilian) Facebook groups; and even ‘stalk’ the Polizia Locale (Local Police) and the Sindica’s (Mayor’s) pages ... all to come to grips with what’s actually going on in my home city.
Why? Well, because I saw the so-obvious need for such a page, given the singular lack of anything like such a forum, in English, covering what’s happening in la mia bella città (my beautiful city): From a ‘local interest’ and ‘what’s on’ point of view.
It’s been both a journey and a revelation, I must say.
But one that I’ve been happy to make, given my wonderful audience!

More Soon...

Time Goes By

2024? 2024!

As the locals here in New York City would put it: “Oh my God!” And you just read that in your head with an American accent, didn’t you?

Happy New Year from the US of A

Anyways: Whoa ... it’ll be 2024 tomorrow! I mean, how can that possibly be?
It seems like it was just yesterday the UK’s ‘Brexit Withdrawal Agreement’ was signed into law; Trump was elected President by American voters; and do you remember when ‘Y2K’ was a thing?
I guess what I’m trying to say is that as the years go by, time seems to speed up. Somehow.
To me, it seems like it was only the other day that I was holding our eldest son’s hand as he took his first tentative baby steps. Or making ‘aeroplane noises’ to get our youngest to eat that food he really wasn’t too fussed about having. And now they’re 32 and 29 years old respectively!
Oh, I so know I’m not alone here too. Far too many others around my age have made a catchphrase of: “Where have the years gone?” It’s a very familiar lament, of course, amongst us who’ve reached that ... certain age.
For me though, I’ll approach 2024 with a sense of wonder: Wonder that I’ve made it this far; that I’ve achieved what I’ve achieved; and that I’m happy.
All I wish for is that you and yours have as great a New Year as I know me and mine will…
Buon Anno! (Happy New Year!)

On The Road Again

They say travel broadens the mind?
And I do consider myself pretty broad-minded! Jokes aside though: Who am I to argue with the accepted wisdom?
Now we’ve travelled more that many over and down the years. Albeit a lot of the time because we felt the need to move country from time to time!
Okay, way more my fault this (ask my long-suffering wife!), as I’ve always had a somewhat low boredom threshold, and have always felt the need to keep moving. Both with my life in general ... and most often to hopefully further my career specifically.
‘Pastures new’ and all that!

One travel destination so worth it!

But, and of course, there comes a time when this becomes more hassle than it’s worth, and I do believe I’ve reached that threshold now. I mean: We’re not ever moving from our ‘kiwi4ever home’ in Modica. Nope. That’s f’sure a given! It’s just I’ve (finally) reached that time in my life when I find myself not enjoying the travel experience anymore.
I’m talking the travelling here ... not the destination. We’re here now in New York City with our youngest son, his lovely wife, and her wonderful family, so what’s not to love!
No. It’s the packing, unpacking, too-warm airports, same old same old hotel rooms, endless queuing, passport control, and so on. I’m so over it now.
Will we continue to travel and explore? Absolutely! That’ll never stop!
It’s just maybe I’ll leave the long-haul travelling to the younger ones now…

Apples and Oranges?

My previous entry spoke of travelling.

Let’s talk about destinations now. Because, human nature here, when you’re visiting a new place, you can’t help comparing it to where you’re living now. Now this could be problematic: Considering I’m in New York, right? But, ever up for a challenge, I’ll give it a go!
The streets here are no cleaner or dirtier than in Modica, and you similarly find yourself having to dodge dog poop. The people are less friendly, but that’s any big city for you.
Public transport is way better. Although, a side note here, not as good as in London. Modica has its churches, while New York has its skyscrapers. Both equally iconic, in their own way.
The bigger city is surprisingly green, so again equal there. Drivers here actually obey the traffic rules though, which is f’sure one up for “The Big Apple”!
The NYPD seem to be everywhere, which is another big win then. And the locals didn’t seem threatening: At least when walking about during the day. There are far too many of them though, and I do find myself yearning for a way less busy place.
This city is easy to navigate for ‘newbies’, with its awesome grid-pattern layout! But then, it’s nowhere near as old as Modica. However, New York is, as you’d expect, way more multicultural. Which I’ve always considered a big plus.
My final thought here though is that this city isn’t a place to grow old in.

More Soon...

Greetings

Italian greetings can be warmer than I for one was used to.

Do remember, and of course, I was brought up in this uber-uptight very ‘Anglo-Saxon’ household. A ‘for instance’ here: When I passed my School Certificate exams in the sixth form, my dad congratulated me by shaking my hand: There was none of that ‘suspect’ hugging going on. Not in our household.

If Marcello and Sophia can do it...

But then, you’ll get a warm greeting here from a local only if you’re lucky enough!
While f’sure the ‘standard’, and much more common greeting (with either sex), is still that firm handshake, with direct eye contact and a winning smile, there’s a ‘next level’ greeting.
Excepting for family, it’s one that you’ll only be offered, and it must be offered, if you’re considered a good friend.
Now we in the non-Italian community (I’ve never liked the term ‘expat’) now commonly do ‘the Italian thing’ of air kissing on both cheeks, but to be offered that privilege, and it is, of doing so with a Sicilian?
Now that is something very special indeed!
What’s it mean? Well, it means you’ve ‘arrived’! That the local offering their (usually left) cheek for that air kiss is a sign that from now on you’re considered to be a close friend: Not merely an acquaintance; not a drinking buddy; and f’sure not a stranger any longer.
Despite its name, “il bacetto” (“the little kiss”) is therefore a big, and not little, thing here in Italy.
Even more so in Sicily!

Term of Unendearment

I mentioned that I dislike the term ‘expat’ just now ... and several times before this too.
And that’s despite the term being bandied about freely within foreign-but-resident communities both here in Sicily and throughout Italy.

Now Wikipedia defines an ‘expatriate’ as: “A person who resides outside their native country.” Now f’sure we fall into this category as retirees who’ve chosen to live here.
But does that make us expatriates? I don’t reckon so: In my humble opinion, we should more correctly be labelled as ‘immigrants’. Why so? Well, because that definition better fits our small communities here, don’t you think?
Here’s Wikipedia again: “Immigration is the international movement of people to a destination country of which they are not usual residents. or where they do not possess nationality, in order to settle as permanent residents.”
For me at least, the term ‘expat’ can be (and often is) seen as implying wealth and/or privilege. It implies an ‘otherness’ that I don’t want to be particularly labelled with. Not when my future’s here.
Okay, originally the word ‘expatriate’ basically referred to exiles. Thankfully a meaning now lost. Unless, of course, you consider some of us at least to be in self-exile from the UK post-Brexit!
An example from the “Expats Ragusa Province” Facebook page: “This is a group formed for English-speaking expats from various countries…” Which so smacks of that 'otherness' I was talking about.
With all that said: I’m an ‘immigrant’ … and a proud one too!

Local Policing

Back in February this year, I covered the various Italian police forces.
Now I only mentioned the local police in passing, so it’s time for a deep dive covering our very own ‘Polizia Locale Modica’.

Mid-morning ... business as usual...

The local police must enforce any instructions received from the national Judicial Authority, the regional Prefectural Authority, as well as the local comune. So, as well as traffic duties, they’re also responsible for: Judicial and public policing; enforcing building regulations; carrying out residential checks (as for us); as well as enforcing commercial premises checks when requested.
However, here’s the ‘crux’ of the matter: Do they actually do their job?
After living here for over three years, and my humble opinion only: No, they do not!
For a start, I reckon not one of the uniformed staff will ever see 60 again. So, they’re hardly a ‘dynamic’ bunch. Three are due to retire shortly too.
And just what they do all day is totally beyond me!
I’ve seen ‘em attending civic functions in their nice uniforms; I’ve noted them sitting in their offices; observed as they chat to friends in the street; and scoped their patrol cars parked up outside their HQ.
Have also seen them all leave at lunchtime; totally ignore speeding motorists (especially those damn scooters!); never once seen ‘em controlling traffic or on foot patrol during busy market days; and noted their laments in the local press about being under-staffed.
In short, they’re about as useful as a (Modican) chocolate teapot…

More Soon...

Sun Seekers

Who doesn’t love the sun?

Especially as it’s late October and, although cloudy as I write this, it’s going to be between 15°C and 26°C today. So mustn’t grumble!
But am I here in Modica for the sun and warm temperatures? Well, to be honest here: That’s partially true. Of course. It is, however, just one factor amongst so many others.
Which brings me nicely to the point I’m trying to make: It’s just one factor. Not the only one.

Because there are fellow foreign residents here who are here, it would appear, for only that reason! And, that being so, they may as well be in the Costa del Sol, Côte d’Azur, or Mykonos surely?
I mean: If’n you’re not bothered with the local culture, language, history, events ... or the locals themselves ... then why indeed bother coming to Sicily? You may as well just rent or buy a holiday home, and split your time between here and wherever your ‘there’ is. Because the EU allows any non-EU/EEA national to stay in an EU member state within the Schengen Area for a maximum of 90 days within any 180-day period.
I know several fellow residents who fall into this category. My personal category of: “Why are you even bothering?” Bothering to go through the massive hassle of obtaining residency here, which it indeed is, when you’d clearly rather be there? Except, of course, for the aforementioned sun…
I will not apologise for holding such a view.

‘Crisp’ not ‘Cold’

Talking about the weather: This is our fourth Autumn in Sicily.
Autumn ‘officially’ occurs between September and November. And, as it is my fourth here, I’m now fully aware of all the telltale signs.
One of which is not the fact the clocks went back last Sunday. Nope. It’s more the little things that give it away.

Things like the evenings and early mornings getting ‘crisper’: Not ... exactly ... cold yet, just way cooler (although this could be me being in denial, of course!). Anyway, this occurred between the evening of the 1st October and the morning of the 3rd October.
What also happened on the 1st October, was our car being covered in dew for the first time since last Spring. Then there’s the fact the mirror in our bathroom is now steaming up following my morning shower. Yet another giveaway sign, I’m afraid!
Mustn’t grumble though, as we’ve been uber-spoiled with the weather this year. Here in Europe, September 2023 was the warmest on record: 2.51°C higher than the 1991-2020 average; and 1.1°C higher than 2020, the previous warmest September.
And, although the official stats aren’t out for October as yet, we f’sure went swimming several times this month.
There are other compensations. Most importantly: ‘La vendemmia‘ (‘The wine harvest’) is still ongoing! Then it’s also the month for lemons, chestnuts, pineapple, olives, eggplant, and fennel, amongst so many others.
Plus, I’m still doing my early morning walks in only shorts and a T-shirt!

Enhance Your Calm

‘Peace of mind’ is so a thing!
The Cambridge Dictionary defining this wonderful idiom as: “A feeling of calm or not being worried.”

No cloud-parting revelation...

Unfortunately, it’s f’sure not something that just happens to you one fine day: Like some cloud-parting revelation from above! Nope.
Entirely ironically, it’s something you must strive for. And it’s damned hard work, too. Then again, if’n it was easy, then everybody would obtain this particular state of mind, and the world would be a way better place for it, of course.
I have to admit to harbouring discontent and dissatisfaction when I first arrived in Sicily over three years ago now. Feelings of displeasure and disappointment with the world in general, and my chosen career and the people in it in particular.
Since then, though, I’ve striven manfully each and every day to achieve the ‘nirvana’ that is ‘peace of mind’.
Not through yoga, transcendental meditation, religion … or even alcohol! But through looking at each stress- and/or distress-inducing situation and then (sometimes forcibly!) asking myself: “Is this worth getting stressed or distressed over? Really?” Then, and hopefully, I answer myself with a resounding “Nah! It’ll be fine…” and move on with living and my life.
My wife, bless her, f’sure aids me in my valiant effort here. Always reminding me I shouldn’t get so upset or ‘shouty’ about this-or-that thing.
Or maybe I should be striving to believe that other great idiom, the one from New Zealand, that states: “She’ll be right…!”

More Soon...

Love this Month

It’s September again.

And, before you say it: I do know it’s an annual thing! Regardless, here we are, in what is my favourite month of the year. And it’s nothing to do with the fact the Sicilian grape harvest is now in full swing! Although that doesn’t hurt, of course.

No. It’s rather that this month is the month of anniversaries. Both good and (somewhat) bad.
Let’s get the ‘bad’ out of the way first. This month marks eight years since I had my albeit mild, but uber-life-changing, heart attack. Not so bad really, as it led directly to us being here.
So on to the good!
The 24th marked our 35th wedding anniversary. A day to remind me, as if I needed it, just how very lucky I’ve been in life.
Then there’s the 25th September: My 65th birthday. Yet another reminder of the fortune I’ve had. For this I’m extra grateful, as my father died at 47; my grandfather at 58. I must make it to 75 to beat my great-grandfather, and I’m so up for that challenge!
The 26th marks a couple of other important milestones.
My first “kiwi4everhome” blog entry was uploaded on the 26th March 2020. And, during the last (precisely) three and a half years since, I’ve managed to scribe over 33,000 words!
Last, but f’sure not ‘leastly’, it was on Saturday the 26th September 2020, we boarded our 11:45 one-way EasyJet flight from London Gatwick to Catania.
Happy memories!

Advertising

Now advertising, and adverts, are something we don’t much like.
I’m sure we can all agree on that: A necessity sometimes, but...
It is, after all, an interruption and interference in our daily lives. However, there’s a time when it is f’sure a ‘necessity’. And that’s when it’s more about informing than product placement, of course! Think of that advert for your local theatre production, play group or sports club. Without which you may not actually know what’s happening in your own neighbourhood.

I bring this up because this type of ‘good’ advertising is sadly lacking here in Modica. Often times, it’s only when we’re passing that we see there’s something on. Or else they’re setting up a stage or exhibition, and we have to ask what’s going on.
It can get somewhat frustrating for us ‘non-clairvoyant’ residents! By that I mean: The locals instinctively seem to know what’s happening. Or going to happen. How they do that, I have no idea … but they do!
And before you say it, the internet’s about as useful as a chocolate teapot when it comes to finding out what’s on. Or not on, for that matter. I’ve spent many a frustrating hour trying to find out, for example, what religious processions are on in the coming month. There’s no one source: If’n there’s any at all!
Which is why I felt compelled to create my “All Things Modica” Facebook page.
For my own benefit as much as it is for others!

Little Health, No Safety

All Summer long we’ve seen guys working on local building sites in our neighbourhood.
This includes working on a large property observable from our terrace, as well as having workmen working on our property during that time. And what really got to me is the total lack of any form of safety measures. Although this is more from the nearby building site, rather than our own place.

Not even a hint of a sign either...

I mean, these guys are up two to four stories, either on scaffolding or on the roof, and there’s not a hard hat, safety harness or high vis vest between them. To be entirely fair here, these did appear ... once ... when an inspector, obviously from the comune, turned up with his clipboard. He, at least, was all ‘safetied-up’! But that was f’sure the exception that proved the rule.
Now the guys working on our place did wear hard hats and obviously had to have harnesses as they were abseiling up and down hard-to-get-to walls to fix ‘em for us.
All good then.
However, when they were chipping away at said walls to get them back to the original stone, not one wore any form of safety mask. The coughing and spluttering got real annoying!
Is it a ‘macho’ thing? Would an Italian or foreign worker be laughed at by his buddies for being a big girl’s blouse because he insisted on wearing a hard hat? Who can say?
All I know is: It’s hard to watch sometimes.

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Phases

It’s widely acknowledged there are several phases of retirement you’ll likely encounter.

I know. Been there, done that ... worn out the T-shirt!

Using an It analogy here...

1. Firstly, there’s ‘Realisation’: Your retirement date’s arrived;
2. Followed by the ‘Honeymoon Period’: No need for alarms or another commute. You can chill!
3. Then comes ‘Disenchantment’: The gloss of retirement wears thin. You may become bored, directionless, and maybe even suffer depression;
4. Succeeded by ‘Reorientation’: You find out some adjustments are needed to improve happiness and fulfilment; and
5. Finally, there’s ‘Stability’: You’re fully adjusted and acclimatised to this new reality.
And then, hopefully, you’ll find both contentment and confidence.
Why do I bring this up? Okay, because I’m retired, but also because it’s exactly like settling into a new country, y’see! I’ve seen it in myself ... and seen it with many others immigrating here. Whether in person, or on the several ‘expat’ Facebook groups I belong to.
Now I’m an old cynic (blame 35 years in IT), but believe me here: The ‘Honeymoon Period’ will not last forever. You’re so excited to be here? I get it. But it’s just a phase. One us ‘old hands’ have all been through.
Then again, the ‘Disenchantment’ phase shouldn’t last your lifetime either. Things aren’t like they were back ‘home’? It was/is so much better there? Alright. I get that too.
But then life’s all about adjustments: Good and bad … retiring or simply living. With that realisation comes inner peace.
You’ll find yours...

“Google it...”

There's an anecdote, attributed to Oliver Cromwell, that reads: “Trust in God, but keep your powder dry”.
It's a good maxim ... whether you have faith or not. You wouldn't jump out of a plane without first checking you needed a parachute, would you? So why is it so many seem to rely on (seemingly) blind faith when it comes to moving somewhere new?
I am, of course, talking about moving to Sicily.
As mentioned above, I actively belong to several ‘expat’ Facebook groups, and they can be a source of uber-frustration! I'm being polite here, but the downright ... naivety ... of some people is breathtaking.

There's the (anonymous) poster who asked about whether buying an olive-producing property in Ragusa (my) province would result in “any form of extortion, through organized crime members...” Then foolishly asked for comments.
Another, obviously fresh off the plane in Palermo, stated they’d found over-flowing bins, and “faeces all over the side walk”. And, because of this, went on to say they didn't want to “give up on my Sicilian dream just yet.”
Then there's the person who bought a 16m² ‘tiny house’ from a local company for €30,000. The workmanship was awful, so were legitimately complaining. Regardless, that's €1,875m², when the island average (2023) is €1,129m².
The lack of work here seems to somehow shock people too. While Italy’s jobless rate is falling, the unemployment rate in Sicily is over double the national average.
Don’t rely on blind faith: Google it!

End on a High

Time to focus on the positive...
It’s easy to complain about Italy’s infamous bureaucracy, the unnecessary hurdles sometimes placed in your way, and the many other ‘hiccups’ we’ve experienced post-move, but I don’t dwell on those.

Don't try this at home...

I saw a post recently on an expats Facebook page that boldly stated: “La Dolce Vita doesn’t exist. It’s just some delusional dream created by some IG [Instagram] content creator.” Albeit Fellini couldn’t possibly have posted about it in 1960.
Regardless, my reply was: “You just gotta look harder yeah…” Because it’s true, sorry. Not sorry.
Y’see, it takes work and dedication to be able to score your own personal “Sweet Life”. But it’s f’sure obtainable! And that’s no matter where you are on this planet. It’s always the little things, the more positive things, that stand out to me the most here in Modica.
Things like the naked beauty everywhere: The history, the Mediterranean, the wild flowers.
The church bells ringing from 8am to 8pm every day.
The patience of the locals with both me, and my (frankly) doubtful Italian!
The curiosity many have about us, and (most often) why we’re here. And their delight when we say we’re permanent.
The kindness and friendliness of the many people who’ve helped us along the way. Several of whom we now consider friends.
That feeling of safety when walking about, no matter the hour.
The creativity of the locals when it comes to overcoming obstacles.
What’s not to love?
Life’s sweet!

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Nonsensical?

There’s some weird stuff here!

Things that took some getting used to. At least, for us stranieri (foreigners).
Take shop sales.

'Saldi' ('Sales')

Unlike many other countries, here you’re allowed only two sales periods a year: One in winter; the other in summer; and between government-set dates! I mean: In NZ or the UK, if’n you wanted to celebrate your cat’s birthday with a sale? Fill your boots!
Not here though. These dates can vary from region to region, too. The 2023 summer sales period for Sicily runs between the 6th July and the 15th September, while in Lombardy (Milan), it’s 6th July and 30th August.
Go figure!
Then there’s the fact that, although we live in a city of 53,000, there are no traffic lights here.
Not one! Which makes us about a century behind the rest of the world. Now, it’s widely acknowledged Italy has far fewer traffic lights than roundabouts. And, to be fair, in Modica we do have a lot of the latter!
I have to say though, I don’t think it’d make an ounce of difference to the locals’ bad driving habits … so maybe why bother?
Writing of traffic?
I’ve noticed many drivers don’t bother with seatbelts. Which maybe is their concern, right? This, however, also extends to their kids not being strapped in! Don’t know how many we’ve seen bouncing up and down on mum’s lap … or standing on the back seat.
Given their love of children here … this is entirely nonsensical!

Quirks?

From the nonsensical ... to the quirky.
One, albeit welcome, oddity here is that you don’t have to pay for that coffee or aperitivo, at a cafe or bar, until you’re ready to leave. No matter how many you may subsequently order. Or, indeed, how long you choose to sit there!
For me anyways, when you’re so used to being asked to pay up-front for each beverage (or donut!) when you order it, this is such a refreshing change!

Then there’s the way Italians will say “Pronto?” (lit. “Ready?”), when answering the phone. Straight off, I noticed Alice naturally started doing this here. This, apparently, is to let the person on the other end of the phone know that you are, in fact, ready to talk to them.
And then, instead of saying “May I come in?”, as you maybe would in English when entering someone’s home, you say “Permesso?” (lit. “Permit?” or “Permission?”). Of course, they’re asking for permission to come in.
Then again, neither pronto nor permesso are actually meant literally, it’s more good form and common courtesy here.
On the border between nonsensical and (un)charming quirky Italian habit, f’sure there’s timekeeping!
A ‘for instance’ here? The other day we made an appointment with the local bank, and the guy we had the appointment with said 10am … then added the caveat “That’s 10 … Sicilian time, okay?” Meaning he’d be ready to see us at 10am … or maybe 10:05 … perhaps even 10:20.
Anything’s possible!

Rules?

There are f’sure some hard-and-fast ‘food rules’ not to be broken here.
Like never break spaghetti! That’s a ‘never ever’, alright? If’n you snap your spaghetti before putting it into the pot, you might just hear some nonna (grandmother) tsk-tsking away in the distance.
I kid you not! And don’t use a fork and spoon when eating said spaghetti: Only a fork is acceptable for pastas that ‘twirl’, okay?
And let’s not get started on the ‘pineapple-on-pizza’ crime against humanity...
Yes: Italians have a lot of rules when it comes to food!

'Filet-O-(maybe)Fish' with cheese? Nope!

Including not putting cheese (Parmesan or otherwise) on any fish-based pasta or risotto dish. Here the thinking is the cheese flavour would overwhelm the delicate taste of the seafood. However, many pizzerias will offer seafood-and-cheese pizzas, which don’t seem to raise eyebrows!
Then, don’t ask for a ‘salad dressing’ for your insalata (salad) either. You can forget about that “Italian dressing” so popular elsewhere, here you may dress your salad with olive oil and vinegar. Maybe substituting the latter with lemon juice or balsamic vinegar.
The practice of walking and eating, fairly commonplace elsewhere, is frowned upon in Italy. Food should be enjoyed slowly, with sit-down, sociable meals. Even street food should only be eaten standing up if there's no convenient seat.
Of course, there’s one notably delicious exception: Gelato. Now that you’re allowed to enjoy while strolling about the place!
The above rules are the tip of a very big iceberg.
Buon appetito! Enjoy your meal!

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